have recently bought a hitachi router (tr-12) and after doing a test cut i cannot for the life of me get the bit out. I must have overtightedned, and now it wont budge i dont know which way to turn the spanners anymore as neither way is making progress I am getting quite angry at the whole thing. Please give me some pointers before i go out and buy some rope instead of extra cutters.
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Replies
Standard right hand thread.
Put a box wrench on the collet nut. That's box wrench now. Take a dead blow style hammer and rap, not pound or beat, the the free end of the box wrench sharply. May have to do this more than once or 10 times.
Cradle the motor but do not anckor it as in a vise. Stick the out put shaft out over the edge of your work bench or some shuch and have at it.
Get violent and you can toss the router in the trash. Put a wrench on the motor shaft if you can and han hold it.
If the router has an internal locking mechinism DO NOT use it. You will break / destroy every thing inside of the motor housing.
As you are looking at the collet the nut wants to turn to the left.
Lefty loosey.
Righty tighty.
hi,
i dont really understand what you mean. looking from the bottom are you saying the collet nut has to turn clockwise or anti clockwise. Thanks
Looking at it from the bottom, counter / anti clock wise, Turn it to the left.
Put a nut and bolt together. The bolt is the motor shaft. The nut is the collet nut. Orintate the router and nut and bolt the same way. Now you have reference to work from.
so i am trying to keep the shaft still, and rotate the collet nut anticlockwise? i will try that with the method you noted before. thanks.
Yessir....
I can lock the shaft off and am gently hitting the collet nut anticlockwise but nothing happening. what else can i do?
Ron said it well.
Use a rap like a rabbit punch or a jab. You want abrupt shock. Don't hit like you were trying to drive a 16d in one lick.
Gental won't work. Same procedeure as though you were taking a drill chuck off.
Push come to shove crack the nut and go get another one. Last resort proceedure onl.
Get your wrenches on the nuts one on the collect one on the shaft- lay the router down on the bench- lay it down so the wrench on the shaft" not the one on collect "is against the top of the bench-
get the other wrench on the collet nut " you will want to turn it the way the cutting edge of the bit turns "watch those fingers when it breaks lose " you way need to use a hammer.
Once the nut is lose rap the side of the nut with the wrench " Don't hit the Threads of the Shaft" until the collet inside loosens and the bit slides out.
Do You Have A Manual for the Router?You Might Want to Look It Over.
gazza
IMERC an Ron have it nailed. Once you get it off, check to make sure it wasn't cross threaded an hasn't stripped. If not, clean the shaft, collet nut with de-natured alcohol or similar. Keep it clean an it's not necessary to over-tighten. As in a TS arbor nut, the bit spins the opposite direction that the collet nut tightens. Just get it firm with the wrench when tightening an then another tad or a tad an a half. Just enough to keep the bit from slipping in the collet.
Ron also nailed tapping the collet with the wrench slightly after you loosen the collet nut. It will stick even after the nut has been loosened. The tap will drop it right out.
sarge..jt
Prick punch held to the lowest oblique angle that you can get away with the punch held up against the shoulder of the collet.
Gently rap the punch.
A lot less chance of damage to the threads or rolling over the shoulder on the router shaft.
If you have a captured collet it will come with the nut.
A super light touch of Never Sieze to the threads will like turning on the lights.
I MEAN A LIGHT FILM OR A LITTLE LESS THAN THAT.
DO NOT GET ANT ON THE COLLET.
IMERC
I eliminated tapping the collet on the table mount al-together. I mounted a Milwaukee 5625 an when you loosen the collet, the bit just drops right out just like they advertise.
As far as the table router is concerned, my tap-dance days are over. ha..ha..
sarge..jt
I have the PC 5202EHD for table otherwise it's a slew of Bosch 1600 series.
Hate to change bits. So my solution was to get another router.
BTW if you use rubbing compound and your fingers to clean / polish the collets and their sockets. Better than hot chocolate and marshmellows on a cold day.
Many router collets are not "self releasing" to use machine tool terminology. You can loosen the nut, but the tapered collet, and the bit it holds, will still be solidly locked in the nose of the shaft. The collet needs to be pulled out of the shaft a fraction of an inch to actually release the bit.
Whether or not the collet is self releasing depends primarily on the degree of taper of the collet's sides, the shallower the taper, the more likely that the collet will jam in its socket. Sometimes a collet that should self release will stick because it is dirty or corroded.
On any router I've ever seen, removing a collet that doesn't self release is achieved by having a shoulder or snap ring on the nose of the collet that the nut will engage after it's been unscrewed an extra turn or two. When the nut engages the shoulder or snap ring you will usually need to apply some additional torque with the wrenches to pull the collet upward and pop the bit free.
It may be, at this point, that you have damaged the threads of the nut by getting overly zealous with the wrenches. If you can get the nut loose, continue to turn it in the same direction that loosened it in the first place, it may take a few more turns but eventually the nut will engage the collet's shoulder and that should pop the collet free.
I went to the Hitachi web site and looked up the TR-12, the instructions are particularly useless, but the parts sheet shows that nut and collet are replaced as a unit which is what I would expect of a collet that doesn't self release.
John W.
Edited 7/28/2003 12:27:32 PM ET by JohnW
Edited 7/28/2003 4:12:47 PM ET by JohnW
Did you get it apart?
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