Replies

1. 
   rslatm | Dec 30, 2002 08:09pm | #1

   Yes...avoid owning one. You can still find them but I would never use the tilt table feature except on slight angles in certain instances. It's very  obvious of the dangers of a tilt table. I don't think Inca even makes that model saw anymore.
1. 
   Troy_Larsen | Dec 31, 2002 01:04am | #2

   Humor me on the obvious reasons for not owning one.

1. 
   Splintie | Dec 31, 2002 01:30am | #3

   Aside from the fact that gravity is no longer your friend and your body is out of alignment trying to see the cut, if you need to cut a miter on a long board, the other end of it will clobber the ceiling joists or hit the floor. And how big of a table could it be before cranking it over was no fun? Outriggers to support the stock? Now add a heavy sled to the equation, tipped at the same angle...

1. 
   Troy_Larsen | Dec 31, 2002 08:50am | #4

   So let's look at this another way.  These saws are relatively cheap (the old Delta).  What if I were to hang the saw by it's table, essentially making it a tilt arbor?  Granted I have not checked to see if the connection between the table and trunnion would support the trunnion's weight.  Just thinking of the possibilities.

1. 
   Ricky_Yu | Dec 31, 2002 12:24pm | #5

   Nowadays, the tilting table is usually found on bandsaws and not on table saws. If I calculated the time I used my bandsaw for angled cuts, it would come out to be less than 0.01% of the time. Furthermore, there is no danger of kickback unlike on a tilting table saw when ripping at an angle. However, if you can't pass up the price, then I suggest it is viable only if you cut at or near 90 degrees full time. I would not recommend ripping at an angle. Even crosscutting at an angle seems dubious, as either the work piece will be trapped between the blade and table or worse, the offcut, once freed, will want to slide towards the blade.

2. 
   Splintie | Dec 31, 2002 10:35pm | #6

   Troy, i'm the very last person in the world to discourage recycling, frugality, and inventiveness, as long as safety is not compromised. Stop and ask yourself why these machines are so cheap, factor in the cost of replacing a finger (mine was $7000--still hurts when it's cold), and see if it's still a bargain. If it is, these are the modifications you need to make. <G>

2. 
   tedwick | Dec 31, 2002 10:57pm | #7

   Greetings!

   I have both the old and new model Inca saw, the old a 10" cabinet maker's saw with the side mounted mortising tool. and the tilt table.  I have used it for 25 years and love it.  I use it for small scale projects.  With the mortising attachment I find myself using less miter joints and fittings, perhaps also influenced by the tilt table mechanism.

   The new INCA saw  (sadly no longer available) is a tilt arbor with a 12" blade capacity.  I am just getting used to it and realize it is clearly the best for plywood, or large pieces.

   I have all my fingers, the only injury I have experienced was when a rather small piece I was holding broke along a crack in the wood and my middle finger was bitten by a band saw.  It was only a flesh wound, but sobered me nonetheless.  All power tools must be treated with respect and used only when you are fully alert, not tired, or in a panic to get things done.

   The tools you use tend to shape what kinds of products you come up with.  I also think the scale of the pieces you make are influenced by your tool capacities.

   Think ahead as to what you really want to produce, get the best suited and best quality because if you are like most of us you won't have second and third chance to buy a particular type of tool.

   Your own instincts and interests should be the final arbiter in your decision.

   Ted

1. 
   mitch | Jan 01, 2003 09:01pm | #8

   i have an old inca 259 and it is one funky piece of equipment!  on one hand, it is really accurate and cuts beautifully- on the other hand, among its many quirks is the aforementioned tilting table and perhaps more annoyingly, the table raises and lowers (like a shopsmith) to change blade height, not the arbor, so i'm constantly adjusting roller stand height.

   a few other oddities include:

   everything is metric, including the 20mm arbor (forrest will bore out blades to size for $7, $25 for dado sets)

   odd size miter gage tracks (i forget exactly what width,  but definitely not .75")

   a 10" blade will fit, but will still be over an inch proud of the table at minimum height- an 8" blade will still not completely go below the table surface either.  it took some very creative engineering on my part to come up with a way to make a zero-clearance insert, and it still only works with blade/table at 90 degrees.  apparently, the saw was originally designed for a 200mm (7.87") blade.

   the tilting table requires a little ingenuity and A LOT of caution to use safely.  since the left side of the table tilts down, in essence you have a "right tilt" saw.  when using the tilt function i do two things- first, i cut the stock to near finish length or width at 90 degrees so the final offcut will be as small as possible; second, i put the fence to the left of the blade (on the downhill side) and let gravity hold the stock against it thru the cut.  for crosscuts, i use a stop on the miter fence to support the left end of the stock.  also, use the splitter or riving knife.  having an assistant catch/support longer offcuts helps, too.  as always with any saw, keep any favorite body parts out of the line of fire.

   working with the stock to the right, or uphill, side of the blade has its advantages (ability to cut longer pieces, offcuts fall away from the blade) but only if the stock is firmly clamped to the miter fence or sled.

   bottom line, i love mine but unless you are an excellent seat-of-the-pants engineer and a very cautious operator i would not recommend them.