Replies

1. 
   dwess | Dec 31, 2005 11:46pm | #1

   If you don't plan on doing this very often, I have used a "low tech" method in my garage shop consisting of using a sheet of 2inch styrofoam insulation panel (4X8) and either laying it on the floor, or onto a pair of sawhorses with plywood beneath it for support. The saw guide can be placed on the MDO and the cut can be made with the circular saw blade extending slightly into the styrofoam. Pretty accurate cuts can be made this way, but you can always cut a bit long and cut to final size on the table saw.

2. 
   BG | Jan 01, 2006 12:45am | #2

   Quickstep,
   This topic has been discussed a few times here and many use a circular saw and straight edge to make the initial cuts on the big sheets. I use a piece of extruded aluminum (from hardware store), clamps and a 36" metal ruler to make my cuts. The ruler is used throughout the project to get consisteny.

3. 
   highfigh | Jan 01, 2006 07:01pm | #3

   If your saw isn't large enough to set your fence 3' from the blade but you would like to in the future, you could get longer rails or if you can get the same kind of steel as what yours has now, you can make rail extensions. This requires legs if the rails are long enough to keep the saw from tipping, but since you would also be able to make an extension table, you would also have more stability with wide/long cuts. You could also make it into a router table and use the same fence for some operations.

   I do quite a bit with sheet goods and when I cut full sheets, I set up a pair of sawhorses in front of the saw and another pair behind, where they'll support the two pieces as they come off. I lay the sheet on the front horses, turn the saw on, then raise the edge so I can begin cutting (slightly oversized, just in case). Since I don't push them off completely, the table keeps them from tipping (as long as the horse is centered on the outfeed) and when the cut is made, I turn the saw off and move them for the next cut. If one piece is too wide for one horse to support it, I use two on that side or lay another sheet on the horses when I'm cutting more than one piece of the same size. It works well for this and I feel safe because I don't need to be in any awkward positions when I'm cutting because I just walk between the first pair of horses and the cut pieces slide back on the outfeed side.

   If I had a shop where I could leave the machines in one place, I'd have an actual outfeed table, but I do this in my garage and need to park there, too.

   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
4. 
   vawoodman | Jan 05, 2006 04:24am | #4

   My recommendation would be to build a saw guide for your circular saw. It is just a piece of 1/4 masonite or similar 8 feet long with a piece of 1/2 or 3/4 straight wood glued and screwed to it. The masonite starts off wide enough so that after you glue the straight wood to it you can run the saw along the edge and cut the masonite to the exact width of you circular saw base.

   When you want to cut your sheet goods, mark the exact location of the cut on the sheet, clamp your new straight cutting jig to the mark and make the cut. This has the advantage over a piece of metal straight edge in that you don't need to compensate for any offset from your desired cut line to where you would have to clamp the straight edge.

   Hope this helps.

5. 
   mudman | Jan 06, 2006 03:21am | #5

   vawoodman has a good idea. I have heard it refered to as a shooting board, though I am not sure it is correct. They are extremely accurate and prevent tearout on the top side as well.

   Mike

6. 
   joepez | Jan 07, 2006 07:16pm | #6

      How about a straight edge and a spiral router bit with a bearing. I think you will get a better cut, and safer to do if your not set up properly on the table saw. MCLS offers the bits. Trim down free hand with the circ saw to 1/8 ", and finish with the router.

    

    

    

1. 
   Crocusboy | Feb 15, 2006 03:22am | #20

   I've used both router and circular saws with the afore-mentioned edge guides and like the circular saw much better.  Not only does it plow out much less material than a router bit will (assuming your bit is wider than a sawblade, which it needs to be to stand up), it's much faster.

     I don't agree with the idea that the router is safer, if one uses a circular saw respectfully... as one should.

   Marty

1. 
   joepez | Feb 15, 2006 06:14pm | #21

   I suggested the router approach because he said he is working on case work where an edge my show pending his joinery method. I too agree a cir saw is faster and if a rabbit or dado is being used, absoulutly. But because the post was not all that specific, the spiral bit would leave a cleaner edge I believe.

   Actually, I prefer using the cir saw because dust is less and not as anoying as the high hum of a router.

   Just my experiance, albeit limited.

7. 
   nikkiwood | Jan 08, 2006 05:30am | #7

   I've used a shooting board for years (post 5), but mine are fancied up some. I have one at 8' and another at a little over 4' for cross cuts.

   It's a slick system, and much better/easier than using a cutting guide.

   ********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

1. 
   Quickstep | Jan 08, 2006 06:29pm | #8

   How about some pictures? I think I'm headed in that direction and seeing what you've done would help a lot.

1. 
   lise_c | Jan 10, 2006 02:16am | #9

   I, too, would love to see some pictures of any type of sheet cutting guide.

   I'm guessing that most of you are on the tall side. At 5"1, I can't have the sheet on sawhorses or horizontal surfaces, because my arms just don't stretch far enough to guide the saw (even with a guide). Basically, I can only cut about 1 foot off a board safely. How useless is that?  However, I've been looking at some vertical shop-made systems. I can do sideways, or up and down, just not horizontal. Although I have done it on the floor with the sheet resting on multiple 2x4s, and kneeling on the board itself. Not happy about that method, but it was all I could do. So any pictures/plans, etc would be greatly appreciated, as I have to build some sort of sheet cutting system this week!

    

1. 
   BMilton | Jan 10, 2006 02:21am | #10

      I use 2x4's instead of sawhorses. Just lay the sheet goods on top. Then sit yourself on the sheet goods and cut away. I've cut plywood on garage floors that way for years - saves the strain of muscelling the sheets around at waist high (or even higher).

      Bob

    

1. 
   John_D | Jan 11, 2006 12:38am | #11

   Ahh, well, it comes down to whether you've got more trouble with the back, or the knees!  :)My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.

2. 
   BMilton | Jan 11, 2006 12:59am | #12

   True that is. But I find myself slightly more comfortable on the floor than trying to msucle those sheets around. But then, I'd really like a vertical layout - just have to build one I guess.

      Bob

    

2. 
   oldfred | Jan 11, 2006 05:16pm | #13

   lise.woodworker,

   This panel saw kit might interest you.

   http://www.woodsmithstore.com/panelsawkit.html

   oldfred

1. 
   lise_c | Jan 11, 2006 06:08pm | #14

   Thanks Oldfred.

   Does anyone here have this panel saw? If so, any problems with it?

2. 
   oldfred | Jan 11, 2006 06:56pm | #15

   lise.woodworker,

   I don't have one yet but have kept the site thinking it would be a good unit if I ever get my new shop built.  Like most of them, even the E-Z guide, it seems to require a dedicated saw.  So I still use the "shooting boards" and have great success with them - they are portable, easy to make, cheap, cut any angle, etc.   

   You might have less trouble reaching to the middle of a 4x8 sheet if you lay it on low horses (12" - 18").  It works for me and makes the sheets easier to handle too.

   oldfred

   edited to say that Rockler also has a panel saw kit.  More money!  http://www.rockler.com

   (but a great company)

   Edited 1/11/2006 11:04 am ET by oldfred

   Edited 1/11/2006 11:12 am ET by oldfred

3. 
   dinothecarpenter | Jan 21, 2006 11:51pm | #18

   even the E-Z guide, it seems to require a dedicated saw.

   Hi Oldfred.

   You can use your saw with the smart base off the ez rails for free hand cuts. Or even with your shooterboard.

   The antichip inserts provide anntichip protection on and off the shooterboard or the ez smart.

   You don't have to dedicate a saw with the ez smart.

   Thanks

   YCF D

   Eurekazone

    

    

2. 
   nikkiwood | Jan 21, 2006 07:13pm | #16

   About a "shooting board" .......................I wish I could post up some pics, but I don't own a digital camera. One of these days.........But a shooting board is a very simple affair, and you find pics in lots of books and mags. They have been used since forever. But in lieu of a photo, here's the description:There are other ways to do it, but here's what I do. 1) Take a piece of 1/2", and rip it so that it is wide enough to hold your CS, leaving enough room so clamps will clear the motor housing. Somewhere between 12-15" is a good place to start. I have one at 8' and another at 5' (for cross cutting). 2) I then take another piece of ply (about 2-3" wide), which can be either 1/4" or 1/2" thick (I use the latter), and glue/nail it on the first board. Where? I set it back about a 1/2" more than the width of my CS base plate.3) Now, take your saw with the blade you will use for cutting ply, and run it along the guide. Thereafter, you will be able to simply mark your cuts on the ply, line up the edge of this shooting board with the marks and cut away. I generally varnish everything -- mainly because that makes it easier to shake dust from it. I also usually mount a 1/4" piece of some hardwood to to the guide (the piece in contact with the saw base) as a wear strip. The disadvantage of this system is you must always use the same saw and the same blade (or at least a blade of the exact same width). It is a slick system, so much so there are now two manufactured versions using the same principle -- one by Festool, the other by EZ Smart. http://www.eurekazone.com/products/detail/sgs.htmlhttp://www.festoolusa.com/ProductDetails.aspx?id=3&prodid=561174
   ********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

1. 
   zorrosdens | Jan 21, 2006 08:05pm | #17

   Right-on....shooter boards are great...I use 1/4" for the bottom piece and 1/2" for the second edge guide (depending on the saw you use you may need to rabate it if anything on your saw "hits" when you are cutting at full-depth).  The reason for the 1/4" is I often run into 2 1/4" inch doors and this helps your cutting capacity.

8. 
   Knott | Jan 31, 2006 10:12pm | #19

   Hi Quickstep, I use four roller stands to put my 4x8 on since I have no infeed table. For cross-cutting I made a jig for my circular saw and it works perfect. Remember to use a good blade on your circular saw otherwise you will get splintering.

    

    

9. 
   KevO | Mar 02, 2006 10:14pm | #22

   I use the eurekazone  setup mentioned earlier and would recommend it.  A red Freud 40-tooth  71/4" blade gives nice chipfree cuts with the antichip inserts.  Saw doesn't have to be dedicated.   The work support table is one of the best parts of the system, small (2'x4') and folds away.   Cutting plywood is way too easy now.

    

1. 
   Jumpman | Mar 02, 2006 10:51pm | #23

   I recently bought one of those DeWalt cordless tool kits (14.4v) with the downsized CS.  Been using that CS with a carbide tipped panel blade to cut 3/4 ply and 1/2 mdf, the saw works great and it's light weight makes it really easy to use with a straight edge or shooting board.  I personally have a two piece straight edge with two 49" pieces that can be joined with a built in dovetailed slide that sucks them together to form a seamless edge (approx $30).  Clamp it down, works great.  I get very smooth edges so long as I keep the CS flat, very good edges.  The key is using a panel blade....

   BTW, that saw works great on 2X4's as well, cut's em all day long....light weight and plenty of power, at the end of a day of fence building, my arms are a lot less tired.

   Jumpman