Finished the built-in I’ve been working on and ready to move to the bookcase on top of it (photo attached of built-in with bookcase taped out). Was hoping to get some opinions and insights on the plan.
I found a photo online and really like the contrast between the clear coat interiors and painted frame (photo attached), so this is the result I’m looking for. Plan is for the shelves and supports to be around 1.5″ thick, and will be flush on all sides with the frame. Total bookshelf will be around 115.75″ x 59″.
Below are the items I’m looking for insight on.
Material – Ply vs Wood
Total price for 1″x12″ walnut seems a little extreme for the project at $2k+. Using veneered panels cuts that to around $890. However, given I’m clear coating the walnut I need those interiors to be CLEAN. Other than the higher risk of chip outs on the veneer is there any downside to using ply?
Double up wood for ~1.5″?
I want everything flush (no frame lips), so I’m planning to use 3/4 ply and to double up the panels to get my desired thickness (which will be around 1 14/32″ depending on the ply). Plan is to do the cuts, titebond and clamp all the panels and shelves (no fasteners, need clean interiors), and then to use dados to mount the shelves. Is there anything I’m missing here? I think the shelves will be easy at 21″ x 10″, but I’m a little concerned about getting the 59″ supports 100% evenly pressed together.
Another idea was to use hollow boxes for the shelves… 1/4″ ply top/bottom with braces in between (can’t find 1/2″ ply). However, I’m not sure if that will be solid enough? I could also use a poplar core with 1/4″ ply veneer on top and bottom, but that seems like a lot more work for little $ savings or gain?
Pocket holes for frame?
I really like using pocket holes for face frames, but on larger work with more parts I’ve found it’s super hard to have the precision to get everything to line up EXACTLY when you go to put it in place (even 1/16 or 1/32 off blows things up). Is there a trick I’m missing? Would glue and brads be a better/easier approach for this type of project?
Straight poly for boxes?
My countertop (see photo) is black walnut with clear danish oil and a water poly topcoat. For the bookcase box interiors I was thinking of just using water poly, since that walnut veneer won’t be as visible. I was going to finish them pre-assembly for simplicity (tape off the dados), Thoughts?
Thanks in advance for any help or tips!
Rick
Replies
I'd go with plywood. You can laminate two 3/4 pieces for the uprights and shelves, but, depending on price, laminating two 1/4 pieces around a cheaper core.
Getting the face frame perfectly flush is a pain. And the issue of blowing through the plywood veneer is very real. And if it's not perfectly flush, it jumps out at you. And if you are painting a flush face frame, it's more work. I would have the face frames have a reveal of maybe an eighth to make life easier.
I wouldn't use just water based poly on walnut, either solid or ply. It looks blah. Put a couple of coats of Sealcoat on it first, then a couple of coats of water based poly.
Thanks for the reply!
On the shelves, what would you recommend for the core? I still need to get to around 1.5", so that would mean 5/4 poplar or something with walnut veneers, and I'd still have the same glue up laminating issue...? I've actually considered torsion boxes as an alternative (frame + 1/4 walnut veneer), but man, the idea of building 12 of those things makes me want to cry.
Good point on the sealcoat. I'm not super concerned about the finish not popping since the shelf boxes won't be that directly visible, but probably worth the extra effort to do it right up front.
-rt
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