Tips on how to remove a finish and matchup color tone between old/new finish
I’m refinishing a wood ceiling (redwood I believe, but I could be wrong) using Watco Rejuvenating Oil. Before starting I tested the product on a couple of spots where it took to the wood and I was happy with the result. I got thru half of the ceiling without issue, but when I started on the other half I found it has a finish on it that will need to be removed before applying the oil.
So now I’m trying to figure out how to remove the existing finish (sanding, solvent?), and when applying the oil, get the color tone to match up with what I’ve already done. If at all possible I don’t want to have to go back and remove the finish on what I’ve already done.
In the pics the darker sections to one side of the center beam are done and the lighter sections on the other side of the center beam will need to have the existing finish removed.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Replies
I would not want to get involved in removing a finish from a ceiling. What a mess! I would be looking into almost any other option.
If the Watco is soaking in at all on the second half and drying properly, I would tend to stick with it. You can either go with one of their pre-tinted products or add some color tint to what you are using. I'm not familiar with the rejuvenating oil or how it differs from the other Watco products. But, if you look for dye that is compatible with oil based products, you will likely find the right mix.
Thanks for the reply.
On the section where I ran into the problem, the oil did not penetrate and I had to use mineral spirits to remove. So I'm thinking on that section of ceiling at least, I'll need to remove the existing finish. There are 3 other sections that I'll need to check further to see if they will also need the finish removed. I can probably sand a single section in a day, but it certainly won't be fun.
If I end up sanding down to bare wood I was also thinking about adding dye to the Watco oil to match up to what's already done. I see W.D. Lockwood has a dye that may work, are there others I should look at? I'll get something ordered and start experimenting with it.
Again, thanks for your input.
I don't know how to describe your issue without sounding like a jerk, but you dug yourself a big, deep hole.
You don't know what wood it is, you don't know what finish is/was on either side. You applied a new oil based finish to half, and so on.
I honestly don't know how anyone can be expected to provide you with a good answer to this, since you're so far into the project.
I would consult a wood finishing expert and have him physically inspect what's going on. I honestly think that's the only way you'll get the results you want.
Thank you for your reply, it was very helpful.
You might end up chasing your tail on this. There might always be a color difference. Are those beams structural or just decorative? Any way to take them down to work on them?
I dont think there's anything in the rejuvenating oil, than oil (mineral or BLO) and solvents. WATCO main products are danish oil (BLO, varnish, solvents) that also come in several tints, like cherry, walnut, oak, etc.
Yeah, I know it will take some doing to get it worked out.
The beams are not structural and I don’t plan on refinishing them, just the tongue and groove.
One more suggestion that might work. Get a can of Zinsser's ClearCoat (shellac). Go to a inconspicuous spot on the good side of the room and apply a coat in one spot. Let it dry. Then experiment by adding color dye (Transtint works) to your shellac in order to make it match the good side test. If you can make it match, scale up your test mix and spray or wipe the shellac/color mix onto the other side.
Shellac is a product that sticks to almost anything and doesn't smell bad. So, it shouldn't matter too much what finish is on it now. Spraying is the best way to apply it; especially in your situation.
Having said that, you might look into something lovingly referred to as "shine juce". Some wood turners like to use it to finish their work. It is a mix of tung oil, shellac, and denatured alcohol. I have no first hand experience with it, but it seems to me that it bight be better for wiping. Also, you can add color to it as with plain shellac.
Thanks again for your suggestions.
I’ll start playing around using dye with both shellac and the Watco oil on some spare lumber in my garage. If I get to the point where it looks viable I’ll test it out on the ceiling.
Whatever you do, even if you don't sand it all off, you should at least give it a light sanding to give the old finish some tooth for better adhesion.
Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.
Got it.
I slept on the shellac and dye idea and think that is most likely the way to go. I’ll get some Transtint ordered up and start experimenting with dying the shellac. I know it will be impossible to get the tone to match up perfectly. I’m hoping to get it where the eye doesn’t easily pick up the difference. The light is always different between the two sides of the room, so that helps.
Thanks again for your help, it is very much appreciated.
If I was faced with that, I'd either live with it, paint it, or sell the house. I'd have no stomach for sanding and refinishing the ceiling. God bless you for doing it.
I could have lived without this hassle but part of me likes the challenge. My wife, not so much.
I don’t labor for a living so projects like this keep me in shape.
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