Tips on routering strike plate mortises by free-hand
mccabekm
| Posted in General Discussion on
After hand chiseling the first half of my doors’ different plates, I ordered a router (plunge/fixed combo from Milwaukee). Since I’ve only used a router a few times, I’m going to mess with it tonight on scrap wood to figure out the tool. However, I wanted to ask here if people have advice. I don’t want to spend the money for the jig, as I only have 3 more doors left. Is there a method/advice on cutting these mortises by free hand with the router? Thanks,
Replies
Strike plate.. I would just use the router for basic depth cut and back to the hand chisel to make the edge form!
Having replaced some 80 jambs/doors, from forced entry, I have always used a router for the hinges and always hand tools for the latch and the strike plate.
The jamb's strike plate gain will go easiest if you first attach the strike, and then deeply outline it with a sharp utility knife.
The deeper gain for the latch is 'outlined' the same way. If you sandwich the latch area between flanking 1x3x10" boards, they will prevent blow-out while chopping out the waste.
I use a laminate trimmer to clear hinge gains and latch plate and cut the strike plate with a chisel.We often work on Victorian homes and the jambs are rabbetted making it more difficult to use power tools.For the hinge gain on the jamb I can get at most of it with a trimmer and finish by hand.But the latch just isn't worth the hassle
If you don't want to spend
If you don't want to spend the money on the jig, make one in about 15 minutes. here's the one I made for hinges. One for the strike would be the same deal. The jig body is 3/4" plywood and I cut the notch on the tablesaw. The two "arms" register on the door. I used a 1/2" diameter hinge mortising bit. You can find a picture of my jig here, half way down the page:
http://flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com/blog/cns!2B3CECCE825F255A!534.entry
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