Tite Bond says to clamp for 30 minutes and don’t “stress” the joint for 24 hours. I’m in a Santa’s Workshop production mode right now and would like to know just how much “stress” is too much. I’m using butt joints on quarter sawn white oak. Thanks for any advice.
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Replies
FWW
I use titebond II a bit stronger than the interior. I almost always clamp for 3 hours and don't do any machining until the next day.
I'm using butt joints on quarter sawn white oak.
Butt joints! I wouldn't stress then at all regardless of how long the glue cures...
tom,
"...butt joints on quarter sawn white oak."
a butt joint, even though glued, has no strength. you probably mean something else, but i had to comment on that.
yesterday i edge clamped some pine. i let it sit for a half hour and was able to work it into the size i needed. i think that "stress" here refers to mechanical type pressure.
eef
You can theorize here all day and reach no conclusion. Or, you can make up three or four sample joints and "test" them at varying times until you reach a point where you'll know how long to leave them to cure.
I'd stick with the manufacturer's recommendation. If you accidentally fail a joint because you are in a hurry, you may not be able to repair it easily. That's the downside of PVA in my opinion. If you were using hot hide glue, I'd say go for it. You can reglue hide glued joints.
Adam
My first reaction was that you have 14 days left before Christmas, and it you've already started... You get the drift of where I am.
I would give them at least 6 hours to dry. At a 8-hour woodworking competition, I glued up a tabletop at the beginning and trimmed it to size towards the end. Not that the stresses in this example were across the joint (crosscut). If you are just sanding, I see no troubles, but if you are planing, look out! Be especially careful if you need to use machinery (don't do it!) You can do some of these stressing activities with less stress (pun intended) if you leave the clamps on.
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
(soon to be www.flairwoodworks.com)
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
It depends on how much leverage you will be able to apply to the joint(s) with your next steps. If "hardly any" - i.e., light sanding, I start in after taking it out of the clamps (45 minutes).
But, if it's the hardwood frame for a large-ish frame and panel cabinet door, and I need to do a little hand-plane work on it to bring it up to snuff and to fit it to it's opening, I'll leave it in the clamps for 2 hours and then not touch it thereafter with any tool until the following evening.
You should be able to handle the stock after an hour if the shop is reasonably warm.I would not try to machine it for at least 6 hours.Usually I'll remove the clamps after an hour or so and clean any glue I see. Then if possible leave the rest go til the next day.
mike
Tom,
If you are needing the clamps for another glue-up, an hour in the clamps is plenty. I wait 24 hrs to do any surfacing of glued-up panels, not so much for strength, you are safe enough after 4- 6 hrs or so to handle the pieces, but to allow time for the moisture-from the glue- introduced into the wood around the joints, to evaporate. Surfacing wood prematurely,( that is freshly glued, glue is set but wood still swollen from moisture) can leave you with tiny "troughs" along the glue lines, after the moisture leaves, that you won't see til the finish is on. damhikt.
Ray
Thank you for the input. I suppose I just need more patience.
Tom,
I heard that. Too bad it isn't on the shelf next to the glue;-)
Ray
It has long seemed for me that the clamp time listed for any yellow glue is way too optimistic even if if you unclamp with velvet gloves and sit the piece on a satin cushion. I love yellow glue but always seem to need a much longer cure. The 24 hour stress time has always been on target though.
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