It seems that TB II is failing me. I made two end tables ( FWW #142 June 2000) for a friend and the M&T joint on the lower rail under the drawer is starting to seperate from the leg. Its also a double tenon which has me puzzled even more. I also noticed a small coffee table at my brothers doing the same thing where the rail meets the leg. I didn’t think too much of it at the time, but now with the end tables I am starting to wonder. Has anybody else here having a problem with TB II ?
Replies
Too many variables for us to surmise that the glue was the culprit. Only you know how well the joints were cut, the condition of the stock you used, the design, etc.
You might consider trying hot hide glue on your next project. Nothing surpasses it for making furniture.
Save the PVA for birdhouse projects...
If M&T joints are too tight initially, the glue is effectively scraped off during assembly leaving a "dry" joint. I have seen this occur more times than I can count.
How old are the joints? M&T joints are effectively cross grain joints and big swings in humidity can cause them to fail sometimes.
I think you hit the nail on the Howie. It has been hot and humid here all month. We had a very wet spring and it has been rainy, cloudy and humid the last 10 days or so. The M&T joints are snug but not to snug to scrap the glue off the tenon before assembly. I shot an e-mail off to Franklin to see if they might have an answer.
As for the tenon = 1/4" or .250. The mortise = 17/64" or .265. That leaves a .015 gap or .007 per side. I think with all he high humidity this may be a bit much.
I once used some Tite Bond II , that I received as a free sample, on an exterior project. While the piece did not fall apart, I was not at all impressed with the glue, and would never use it again. All PVA glues are subject to creep, but the TB II seemed far worse. I rarely use anything other than hide glue for my work. I do use white glue for some things ( making inlay bandings). White glue is reliable ( as far as its known track record), and its strength exceeds that of the wood, so I see no need to use even yellow glue, let alone the poorly performing Tite Bond II.
Rob Millard
Gee -- Am I the guy swimming upstream here? Titebond II is about all I use and have never had a problem -- from glued-up turning blanks to tables to church furniture. Maybe it's because I always use a fresh bottle from high turnover stock, or maybe it's because I live in an area that doesn't have temperature extremes (it's almost always hot and humid), but I think of TB II as a friend who's never let me down, whereas the polyurethanes are a pain to use. I do use Weldwood for exterior stuff that demands it, I built a seven-foot porch swing that lives on a covered porch and it hasn't had the first problem in over five years. Mind you, I'm not promoting here, just telling it like it is for me.
I'm glad (sorry for you) to see someone else has had a problem with TB II. I just used it for the first time, and was not pleased at all. I used it in a loose tenon joint that came apart after a day for drying, by just testing the strength with my hands. I redid the joint with Titebond original, and had no problem. Last time I use the TB II.
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