I’ve been seeing ads for Titebond III. It is advertised as truly water proof (not resistant). Has anyone used it? What did you think?
A waterproof glue that works like a yellow alaphatic glue would be a boon.
I’ve been seeing ads for Titebond III. It is advertised as truly water proof (not resistant). Has anyone used it? What did you think?
A waterproof glue that works like a yellow alaphatic glue would be a boon.
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialGet instant access to over 100 digital plans available only to UNLIMITED members. Start your 14-day FREE trial - and get building!
Become an UNLIMITED member and get it all: searchable online archive of every issue, how-to videos, Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking digital series, print magazine, e-newsletter, and more.
Get complete site access to video workshops, digital plans library, online archive, and more, plus the print magazine.
Already a member? Log in
Replies
>>A waterproof glue that works like a yellow alaphatic glue would be a boon.
Just curious, but why?
"Waterproof" means an adhesive meets the ANSI Type I specification which means the adhesive is suitable for use in completely submerged applications and meets a temperature test of boiling water. For normal outdoor applications, a Type II adhesive is more than adequate.
With the cost of the new adhesive, I think it only has a very limited application.
It's also curious that the adhesive carries the label of Titebond III when it's an adhesive that meets the Type I ANSI spec. Could this be their marketing department at work?
Edited 5/16/2004 9:41 am ET by Howie
Why a yellow glue that is water proof also?
Because yellow glues are easy to use and give strong joints if wood is machined well. I'm not looking to use it for submerged applications - I'm thinking more like chairs, tables, birdhouses, and general outdoor construction a little better than 2X4s and deck screws.
The alternatives:
1. Epoxy: I use wests for boats. But, for stuff that will get wet in the winter and bone dry in the summer, epoxy is too stiff. The wood can actually fail along the glue joint because the epoxy soaked wood resists expanding with moisture.
2. Urethane: Ok for some use, but it makes a mess and sometimes fails without a visible cause. See posts about urethanes.
3. Construction adhesive: Liquid nails skins over instantly and doesn't bond where the skin ends up against the wood.
4. Urea/formaldehyde: I recently was gifted with adult onset asthma.
Asthma + formaldehyde = ER visit
Are there some other really good outdoor adhesives I'm missing? We could use some!
2. Urethane: Ok for some use, but it makes a mess and sometimes fails without a visible cause.
I must have missed that... Can you be more specific, or direct me to the post where this was discussed? The mess doesn't bother me (I think it's easier to clean up than PVA), but failing without cause would be catastrophic. If this really happens then I need to stop using it immediately!
Are there some other really good outdoor adhesives I'm missing?
Well, you didn't list Titebond II, which pretty much meets all your criteria. Your furniture isn't going to be continuously submerged, so why pay extra for that? "Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler." A. Einstein
http://www.albionworks.net
>>I'm thinking more like chairs, tables, birdhouses, and general outdoor construction a little better than 2X4s and deck screws.
The above is exactly the ANSI Type II spec. No need for a Type I adhesive for those applications.
Hey, maybe he's just a "belt and suspenders" king of guy?Steelkilt Lives!
Also, on the bottle, it clearly states that the product is not for submerged applications. I don't really get it, and haven't been willing to spend twice as much for it. I have also been a little worried about creep; no one has addressed that question yet, as far as I've seen.
Charlie
>>on the bottle, it clearly states that the product is not for submerged applications.
If that's the case, then it does NOT meet the ANSI Type I spec and should not be labeled as "waterproof". Rather, it should be labeled "water resistant" just like their Type II Titebond II.
The glue does meet Type I specs. The "not for submerged applications" is simply a statement that reduces liability.
I used it. I does what they say.
I asked the question regarding glues for cutting boards some time back and there were several who suggested TBIII. I used it, and will have to wait and see.
Don
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled