Titebond Liquid Hide Glue for chair assembly?
Badger1805
| Posted in General Discussion on
I am about to assemble a chair and am considering using Titebond Liquid Hide Glue instead of the Titebond PVA glue that I have used almost exclusively over the years. I like the idea of a longer open time (the chair is mission style, with many mortised and tenoned slats) and easy water cleanup of squeeze out (although in this case all of the parts are prefinished), but from a practical standpoint is it almost as strong as PVA? If not, is it still plenty strong for a typical chair application? Is the reduced gap filling property something I should be concerned with? FYI, I’m also using screwed corner blocks.
Replies
I love the stuff. You'll be fine, especially if your M&Ts fit well. Bonus: If it is a traditional dark finish any glue-filled cracks will be virtually invisible. The only downside is a longer wait time in the clamps.
If you have a particularly gappy joint fix it first, or maybe mix up a little epoxy for that spot.
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2012/07/26/dont-overlook-liquid-hide-glue
Thank you for relaying your first-hand experience in using it. I read the article you provided a link to, and I was surprised to find that according to the manufacturer (Franklin) the two products are essentially of equal strength. In this application in particular, the advantages of LHG outweigh the disadvantages.
I agree with MJ and the good FWW article about liquid hide glue. Although you don't have to warm up liquid hide glue if the temperature is above 50 degrees Fahrenheit, I find it helps to make it flow and spread easier if I put the container in an old plastic coffee can of hot tap water before using it. Then when you need to clean up the squeeze out or the spreader (flux brush), you just need to dip a rag or the spreader in the water and wipe it clean. It just takes a little of the hot water on the rag (not dripping wet) for clean up.
I think it's perfect for your application.
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