Replies

1. 
   Hempstalk | May 20, 2002 08:57pm | #1

   Hey Dave.  You might want to consider buying some good new blades first.  Your riser block won't be of much use to you if you don't have an approiate blade to use with it.  I'm assuming you want the riser to get more resaw capacity.  Proper blades are very important to get the right results your after.

1. 
   DaveofPA | May 20, 2002 09:53pm | #2

   Yes, I do want more resaw capacity, and I may occasionally want to rough-in a large (thicker than 6") carving.  I have read a lot about Timberwolf blades and others.  I guess I was wondering if the idea of simply adding a riser block to an existing saw, thus having 12" of resaw capacity is too good to be true.  Is the saw frame still rock-solid?  Do tracking/adjustment problems develop?  Is the 1hp motor powerful enough?  Am I going to ruin a good thing (the saw in its present state) by trying to make it better?  Thanks again.

2. 
   jeffn7 | May 20, 2002 10:01pm | #3

   this is a no-brainer in my book if you plan on doing any resawing at all. I've had my riser kit on my 14" jet for about a year and have had no problems at all. You will need 105" blades, the timberwolf blades are excellent (the same blade is also sold under the Viking brand, both are mfg by suffolk machinery), and I would also recomend Woodslicer blades from Highland Hardware.

1. 
   DaveofPA | May 20, 2002 10:15pm | #4

   Thanks for the experienced input!

3. 
   sschefer | May 20, 2002 10:57pm | #5

   Dave, from what I've heard the riser blocks are great but obviously you're gonna have to replace those stock blades. My 18" Jet came with three very frustrating pieces of junk. I bought replacements almost immediately but the ones I bought were middle of the road. I just ordered 6 new Timberwolf blades from Suffolk Machinery.  My advice would be to go to the Suffolk site and read all of the information about setups, blades, etc.. Next get your riser block and install it. Then call the folks at timberwolf and explain to them what you've done and they will pick the correct blades for you and your saw. This will save you the hassle of trying to figure out what you need. Great people by the way.

   One of the nice things about the Timberwolf blades is that they don't require as much tension as other blades. They claim this will make my old 12" Craftsman act like a totaly different saw.

   Heres the link:

   http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/index.html

   Steve - in Northern California

   
   

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   Edited 5/20/2002 3:59:20 PM ET by Steve Schefer

1. 
   DaveofPA | May 21, 2002 02:56pm | #7

   Thanks Steve,

   Sounds like Timberwolf and Suffolk have earned some followers.  I'll be ordering a Timberwolf.

4. 
   gerry001 | May 21, 2002 06:10am | #6

   I'll start by agreeing with Jeffn7. I've had the Jet-14 for several years, with the riser blocks. I've resawn a lot of wood, including thin panels and veneer. First suggestion--throw out the blade that comes with the saw, as it's junk. As was mentioned, you need 105" blades with the riser block.

   A few years back, a number of us dug into this on rec.woodworking. For wide resawing, the Timberwolf came out better for 8-12" boards, while the Woodslicer was better up to 6" or so. We traded and compared samples, and this difference was not very much. They're both good blades.

   For 10-12" hardwood, practice your patience. The saw will take it, but you have to feed slowly and very steadily. If the feed rate is too high, you'll get a rougher surface and crowning, where the blade bows out in the middle.

   Problems? As I recall there are two styles of upper guide assemblies, and some of them don't track very well when raised and lowered, and move a bit even when tightened. I replaced my upper key with one fabricated out of UHMW plastic. It gives better tracking and doesn't move as it's tightened. In any case, always readjust the guide blocks when moving the assembly. Many prople complained on this one, but some had no problem.

   With the riser blocks, I could not accurately align the saw. It's simply a matter of dealing with a rather large cast assembly, which undergoes a lot of stress when tensioning a wide blade. For that matter, the alignment also changed after a few months of use, due to the stress. For precision sawing, the two wheels need to be aligned in three dimensions, and the blade needs to stay roughly centered between the guide blocks. At one point the wheels were out and a wide blade contacted a metal guide under tension.

   I then pulled the alignment pin out of the riser blocks, and slightly loosened the bolt. With a block of wood and a sledge I tapped and turned the upper assembly into position, then tightened. All came dead on and stayed that way.

   The table was slightly off, front to back. If you tilt it then you can get to the mouting bolts. I added 0.015 shims on one side (thin plastic).

   You may never see any of the above issues, but none of them are difficult to solve. Overall, I've been happy with the quality and performance of the saw.

   Gerry

1. 
   DaveofPA | May 21, 2002 03:01pm | #8

   Great information Gerry,

   I'll print your message to help me when I begin the task of realigning the saw.  Sounds like it can be pretty tricky.  I appreciate all of the tips.

   Dave