I am about to use Transtint dye, specifically Dark Vintage Maple, on a maple table. I was hoping to mix it with water, and not use alcohol. After tinting the table, I will be spraying Crystalac, a water based finish, using 4 coats.
Here’s the question: Do I need to seal between the dye and the crystalac to keep the dye color from bleeding into the finish coat?
If so, what can I use? I’ve heard of sealing with shellac, but I have never been able to get shellac to come out even, without ridges. Are there alternatives, if necessary?
I will be spraying with an HVLP system.
Thanks,
Walnutz
Replies
Walnutz,
The alcohol in shellac is a solvent for transtint too. Probably more so than water. That being said I have sprayed shellac over transtint lots of time without any problems. You should be able to do the same with waterborne. Just spray a couple of light coats at first. The real problem comes if you try to apply finish any way other than spraying.
Rob
Well I usually use a sanding sealer for the first coat.Then a build coat of poly and then a finish coat
Rob and Sancho
Thanks for the input. Do you guys use a sanding sealer before the dye to raise the grain, or do you just wipe the wood with water? This is my first time using a dye.
Walnutz
There is no need for a sanding sealer. The steps are to first raise the grain by spraying distilled water on the surface, letting it dry overnight and then lightly sanding with 220 paper on a sanding block.Next, vacuum off the dust and apply a waterbased dye. Let it dry overnight and then spray on a "dust" or light coat of waterborne (this seals the dye preventing dye bleed into the final coats). Let it dry and spray on a full coat. Let it dry and sand with 320 paper on a sanding block. Dust and spray on two more full coats of finish.Howie.........
Howie
Thank you. That's exactly the information I was looking for.
Walnutz
Howie
I have another quick question regarding the transtint dye in water, if you don't mind. I followed your finishing schedule to a T, including distilled water to raise the grain. After sanding it all smooth again, I applied the dye with a spray gun. Color is great, and very even, but the grain of the maple raised again.
Question... How do I smooth out the surface again. Should I block it down again, or should I spray my waterborne finish first, and then block it down. This is a kitchen table, and I obviously don't want a rough surface. I'm concerned that if I sand it smooth, that the color will be disturbed.
Thanks,
Walnutz
Walnutz,
You most likely sanded to much. When you are sanding off raised grain you are trying to just cut off the fibers that are sticking up without cutting through into new grain that will raise. This can be very difficult to do, which is why I don't worry about it. I just let that grain raise as much as it wants with the dye application, put on my first coat of finish which traps the raised grain and seals the wood. Now you can sand them off without worrying about sanding the color or exposing new grain that will raise again if you are using a waterborne finish anyway.
So go ahead and apply your first coat of waterborne. That will probably raise even more grain, but now you can sand it all off without worrying about the color or more grain raising.
Rob
As Rob said, you may have sanded the wetted surface too much. It's best to just sand using the weight of the sanding block and very little additional pressure. Sand only a couple of strokes.At this point, just apply a coat of your waterborne acrylic, let it dry and then sand it lightly being sure not to sand through the finish. Apply a second coat and again sand it. It should be smooth by then and you can apply additional coats.Howie.........
Howard and Rob
That's what I figured, but I wanted to make sure. Thanks to both of you for your help. I'll be at it first thing tomorrow morning.
Walnutz
I raise the grain first. Wet with a wet cloth or spray bottle. Then I let the grain raise and sand then apply the w/b stain then seal with a good w/b sealer. Then sand smooth using a 220-320 sand paper then finish
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