Hello,
Not sure where this should go or if it has been discussed before. Apologies in advance.
I did something in the shop that I have never done before, made a classic style Tongue and Groove cabinet door for our kitchen cabinet.
I admit that although, my first one, it isn’t all that bad.
Several months ago, I purchased a two piece tongue and groove router bit set. Although it was cheap ($20) from Amazon, I didn’t want to spend $60-$100 on a bit set that I didn’t know if I would like.
Now, for the work. The groove was easy to cut. Put bit in and cut all pieces with the groove. The tongue had a bit of a learning curve.
First, I don’t think I isolated the bearing accurately. When starting the piece through the tongue bit, it cut about 1/16” deeper than the rest of the wood. That will take a little more practice.
Second, when cutting the wood, I had about a 1/16” piece of wood on top and bottom of the board where the bit didn’t completely remove the material. Not sure if I did something wrong and needs a little adjustment.
I will say that I measured my bit and it is about 13/16” thick from carbide tip to carbide tip. The wood I purchased was sold at a big box store in their dimensional lumber section. It is basic pine. The wood I measured was 13/16” thick.
Is this a case that I should be milling my lumber down to 3/4” instead of just cutting it straight from the store?
I will say that I am still in the beginning stages of woodworking. I haven’t purchased a planer yet. The only tools I have so far is a Table Saw, Bosch 1617EVS Router with fixed and plunge base, compound miter saw, dewalt variable speed router.
Sorry for the long post.
Replies
It sounds like you are doing all of this with a handheld router. Take one of the routers and mount it in a router table to improve pretty much everything about making your doors with a matched bit set. If you have a lot of doors to make mount the second router also to eliminate bit swapping and having to dial it in over & over again.
Cut all of your parts overlong until you get used to the process.
The "router table" can be a simple plywood slab and you can clamp a stick across it for an instant fence. My router table was plywood clamped in a B&D Workmate for many years.
I forgot to mention it in my post. I am using a router table with the fixed base installed. I am also using a matched bit set. I may have to adjust the groove a little to get equal amounts of wood on either side of the groove. Maybe that will help the tongue bit and any issues I am having with it leaving wood.
Also, do I need to set the router on a particular speed?
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