Tongue and Groove cedar closet door – how to get straight and flat
First time trying to build something like this: T&G cedar 3/4″ thick, 84″ long, 21″ wide, G1S for a rustic closet door and I have some questions about how “straight” I can get everything.
Question 1:
I’ve found and put together 7 T&G pieces (3 1/2″ each, then to be trimmed). Each piece is, of course, somewhat off-straight, with a small curve in it – and not always the same way, but I’ve aligned the straightest pieces together. With pipe clamps at three locations on the length, they will come perfectly straight, from one side to the other. I assume that glue, in and of itself will not hold them like that, so have planned to put some strips across the back (rough side), likely in a Z-pattern or possibly two Zs. I think that will maintain straightness along the length of the door. Am I correct in this thinking? (I don’t want to use metal strips.)
Question 2:
This is harder: how to keep the 7 pieces “flat” to each other. On a wall, it’s easy…the wall defines the plane of the T&G pieces. How do I do that when there is no “backing” to use? Just sitting there on my workshop table, the door, seen from the top edge, looks “wavy” – not very, but not flat either.
Replies
This is a door with no frame? "Rustic" door, doesn't that mean "wavy"? If your t&g boards are bent or cupped your backing boards could minimize the wavyness if they are of sufficient strength.
I could put a frame around the outside on the back to add thickness - this would probably make it better for hinges, too, and add diagonals, and a middle, horizontal board across, for additional strength. It doesn't need to be perfectly straight, but I'd like to try to at least minimize the "waviness".
I have a barn door made from 7" T&G on a shed and it's just fine -- but it has a ton of wood framing as it weighs about 150 lb.....didn't think that was a good approach for a simple closet door!
3/4" is really thin for a door. I suggest doubling up the material and once the new parts have settled down mill them flat and square before making the door. Ideally you'll wind up about 1.25" thick. Some other construction methods (instead of a solid slab door) would be more stable.
I did some 'rustic' doors and drawer fronts recently out of 200+ year old reclaimed white oak.
The supply of wood I was given was less than perfect and there was a finite amount. I didn't have the luxury of doing too much milling.
I was very worried about the strength and stability of the doors (The drawer fronts are attached to the drawer boxes, so it has stability that way). So, I cut stopped grooves in the back and fastened battens in place.
I made the battens with a lip to cover the groove on the doors. I cut slots in the battens for the outboard screws to allow for movement.
Battens can work. I would do both sides.
Bowing lengthwise can be helped with cross bracing.
He built his door over a year ago.
I buy _mj_’s point. ¾” would be thin for a door. And that doubling suggestion could help sort out a lot of your problems. You will have strong material to work on. Using the workshop table in combination with another table could help give you a base to keep the material flat.
For vertical boards I'd start in the middle and work out. That way the only trimming would be on the lengthwise ends & barely noticeable.
Mikaol
Door, not floor.
"What's all this I hear about a presidential erection?"
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled