Replies

1. 
   _mj_ | Aug 09, 2020 08:45pm | #1

   Slow speed wet grinder, diamond plate for flattening, and waterstones. I use Shaptons. The Veritas mk2 is probably the best honing guide you'll find in terms of repeatable results.

2. 
   GW52 | Aug 09, 2020 09:45pm | #2

   If you need diamond plates for flattening why not use them for sharpening. I have 3 plates coarse, medium and fine and they have done a great job for knives, chisels and plane irons.

3. 
   benjaminallen | Aug 09, 2020 10:22pm | #3

   Hello,

   I agree with _MJ_, I have been using the Veritas MK.II deluxe honing guide set since Christmas and it works great. The set comes with a camber roller base that so far I have not used, but I'm sure it would work just as nicely as the other (straight) roller base. As for a grinder I do not own a grinder so I don't have any suggestions for grinders. I have heard good things about slow speed wet grinders, but they are very expensive.

   If spending $130.00 on a honing guide set is out of your price range the generic gray honing guide sold at Woodcraft is a good option too, I had that for three or four years before I got the MK.II for Christmas this year.

   By the way I use water stones and a Norton flattening stone for all my sharpening (chisels, plane irons) they are softer then oil stones but I would rather have to flatten my stones more, instead of having to use oil.

   I hope this helps you with question.
   -Ben

4. 
   lat_axe | Aug 10, 2020 03:47am | #4

   Like others, I have and like the Veritas Mk II jig-set for hand sharpening chisels and plane blades. However .....

   I recently acquired a Sorby proedge belt sharpener along with various grades of sharpening "sandpaper" belts to run on it; and a jig or two to hold various things. I got it just to regrind lots of metal from plane blades I wanted to reconfigure - make a 25 degree bevel instead of a 40 degree bevel, for example; and to re-establish primary bevels when the micro-bevels got too large to re-sharpen by hand in a reasonable time.

   This Sorby machine has been a bit of a revelation, though, in that it can put very good final edges on to tools if very fine grain belts are used such as the 3M Trizact belts, which go to about 3000 grit. I don't know what grit-measuring scheme these fall under but they're said to have the same grinding effect as a 2-micron lapping paper.

   Such edges still need the wire removed from the back of the blade. The machine won't flatten backs easily either; or planer blades. There are jigs for turning tools, gouges and knives of various sizes though .....

   https://www.robert-sorby.co.uk/sharpening/proedge/wped01a-proedge-system

   I now use the Sorby to reconfigure edges with substantial metal removal but also to final sharpen some items that I previously put into the Veritas Mk II for hand sharpening. The Mk II is still necessary, really, to get super-edges and tiny micro-bevels, s it's more controllable than a machine in how much metal is taken.

   Machine planer and jointer blades are best sharpened using a jig to hold them. See, for example:

   https://www.finewoodworking.com/2020/05/12/workshop-tip-simple-setup-hones-planer-and-jointer-knives

   Lataxe

5. 
   rob_ss | Aug 10, 2020 05:45am | #5

   Yet another upvote for the Veritas jig. Awesome.

   My setup is 3 diamond stones and a final yellow King waterstone - about 8000 grit. The waterstone cost more than the three diaflat stones...

   I also have a grinder with a white wheel and a nice veritas (again) tool rest. These see little use, and with the coarse diaflat (also useful for flattening the waterstone) I do most of my work on the diamonds now.

   I send my jointer blades out for sharpening.

6. 
   john_c2 | Aug 10, 2020 07:20am | #6

   A lot i f us try to sharpen jointer and planer knives and find it's not worth the trouble. Sending them out is easier, and worth the small cost.

   I use a Drill Doctor to sharpen drill bits. Honestly, if it was just small diameter bits I would just replace them when the time comes. Tgey are pretty cheap, and they don't dull often in wood. I got the Drill Doctor because I use long bits in larger diameters for electrical and other work, and hit nails all too often. Tossing those bits is way too pricey, and the Drill Doctor has saved me a lot of dough. But a 50 or 75 dollar machine to occasionally sharpen a one or two dollar bit doesn't make much sense.

   I use diamond plates and an ultrafine ceramic for sharpening chisel s and plane blades. Waterstones were too much trouble. I use a Lie Nielsen guide. It holds everything absolutely rock solid. I had the Veritas guide before the L-N came out, and gave it away. Too many tools, especially narrow blades, would twist in the guide, and it was just too frustrating.

7. 
   jfsksa | Aug 10, 2020 08:56am | #7

   Check out Paul Sellers' sharpening videos on YouTube. Practical advice. He uses diamond plates - I do as well. They are super durable and never need flattening. Also they don't need to be soaked in water, which is a pain to deal with. Unlike Paul, I use a cheap honing guide that gets the job done. I don't have 40+ years of practice to be able to sharpen chisels freehand. I might upgrade to the Veritas model when the next gift giving occasion comes along.

8. 
   fivebirdscustom | Aug 10, 2020 10:07am | #8

   I use wet/dry paper on solid surface plates for rough work most of the time. Then, I switch to a diamond plate and then a Shapton ceramic water stone (16k) to finish.

   I've had and sued the original Veritas honing guide for a coons' age. I use it when first setting the primary bevel on tools. Although I have recently converted to almost all Japanese style chisels, which have tapered sides, so I can't use the Veritas with them any more... But,. I've also gotten quite good at hand sharpening these days.

   I have a regular (inexpensive) high speed grinder, but have used it rarely for sharpening because I've never had a decent wheel on it... Been looking into a CBN for it recently (since I got a lathe for Father's Day).

   I've looked at things like the Worksharp 3000 and other systems.... But, never bit the bullet and dropped the coin.

   The reality is that the best sharpening system is the one you use. The real secret to sharpening is doing it often.... More often than you think is required.

9. 
   geedubbee | Aug 10, 2020 11:06am | #9

   The great thing about forums is that you get a lot of experienced input from multiple sources in one place.

   Another Veritas MK-II user here, for many years. I also have Kell and others. Glass plates and diamond stones and a grinder and a wet sharpener, etc..

   With a wide variety of things to sharpen comes a wide variety of sharpening supplies. Let's look at your list:

   "chisels, hand planes, planer and joiner blades, as well as knives and drill bits."

   Most flat chisels and plane irons get shaped on the grinder or, if less removal is required, on the Worksharp 3K, then finished up on DMT diamond stones. I have work out other makes of diamond stones and still use the DMT I bought over 15 years ago along with all the other DMT stones I now have . . . yes, I actually learned my lesson when the others wore poorly ;-)

   I have to say that the wet sharpener was a waste of money. While it does an excellent, precision job, it is sooooo slowwwww. If a lot needs to be done it takes forever. If a little needs to be done I can touch up on a stone faster than I can fill the water reservoir let alone set up the arm and jigs. It's not like we don't touch up our chisels nearly ever time we use them, right? Remember, this is only one point of view; the value is in multiple points of view.

   Planer and jointer knives (before I switched to segmented heads) are best sent out IMHO. If you want to do you own a jig and stone like shown in the pic give pretty consistent and repeatable result with practice.

   I use an inexpensive Laskey set for knives with great success.

   Drill Doctor for twist bits.

   Brad point and Forstners by hand, oh, and the occasional router bit too. Some diamond or other high quality needle files and diamond paddles will do you there.

   
10. 
    RobbyW | Aug 13, 2020 11:47am | #10

    I have or have used most of the common sharpening methods discussed over the years, I currently use diamond stones for honing and a 10,000 grit ceramic stone for polishing, i use either an 8 inch low speed grinder or a Worksharp 3000 to rough things in. If I am in a hurry, sometimes I will use Worksharp all the way to the final edge. It actually does a decent job.

    As for guides, I have used the grey side clamping guide, the Veritas Mk 2 guide and several others. I gave up on the Veritas for most uses. It is too fiddly. The grey guide works petty well, especially if you modify it as shown in several videos. But I got tired of its stiff an unprecedented feel.

    My goto guide is a Lie Neilsen. Best guide of the batch. Solid, holds firmly. With it, my griders, diamond plates and ceramic stone, i can go from rough to sharp in a few minutes.

11. 
    john_c2 | Aug 13, 2020 01:39pm | #11

    RobbyW, what you wrote is exactly my experience. Word for word.

    We are now sharpening twins.

12. 
    [email protected] | Sep 17, 2020 09:38am | #12

    For your joiner try those replaceable blades.No more fiddling with adjustments as the magnets place the replacement perfectly