Replies

1. 
   Nail gunner | Mar 25, 2006 07:41am | #1

   You'll probably get a lot of different answers to this one. When I started woodworking I used the finish my teacher used, 1/3 linseed 1/3 Varathane 1/3 turpentine. It gives a very natural finish but requires frequent re-oilings to keep it from drying out. I never seemed to have that much time. Also it is not very resistant to spills and wet cleaning. More recently, I will use this finish on the table base and spray Varathane (satin) on the top (both sides). The sheen matches well and the top is much more durable. It helps to have good spray equipment as I have seen a lot of messy brush on jobs with Varathane.

1. 
   dukeone | Mar 25, 2006 06:55pm | #2

   N.G.: Thanks for the advice, Gunner. I went ahead and put two coats of varnish on the top; it ain't perfect but but it will stand up to use and was good practice for me. I used a satin finish indoor product from Interlux with 10 or 15% thinner. Had to do it indoors and leave all the windows open, I can't get it out to the shop. I may do a third coat come the better weather here and fix the few defects from drips and the one bristle stuck in it that I didn't notice till it was half dry.

   Duke

   Kenneth Duke MastersThe Bill of Rights December 15 1791NRA Endowment MemberLEAA Life MemberCRPA Member

   Edited 3/25/2006 11:56 am ET by dukeone

   Edited 3/25/2006 11:57 am ET by dukeone

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 25, 2006 07:32pm | #3

   >> 1/3 linseed 1/3 Varathane 1/3 turpentine

   That's what Watco is.  It's called an oil/varnish mixture.  Actually, Watco is equal parts of varnish, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits.Howie.........

1. 
   byhammerandhand | Mar 26, 2006 02:36am | #5

   I managed to find an MSDS for Watco a while ago. I don't remember who the manufacturer was at the time (it's changed over the last 20 years).It was
   60% Mineral Spirits
   30% Boiled Linseed Oil
   10% (other) varnish, driers, colorants, etc.

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 25, 2006 07:37pm | #4

   Watco is designed to be a complete finish requiring no overcoating.  If you want a more durable finish, you can get the same look from just a coat of boiled linseed oil wiped dry followed by a few coats of a varnish.  It's the boiled linseed oil in Watco that "pops" the grain.

   An everyday kitchen table is one item where a poly varnish makes sense.  The somewhat extra scratch resistance is beneficial.  However, poly will leave you with a somewhat hazy finish.  A better appearing finish is a non-poly varnish.  Something like Behlen's Rockhard or Waterlox Original Gloss will give you the same protection and a better appearence.

   Howie.........
3. 
   WillGeorge | Apr 02, 2006 06:29pm | #6

   Gee just me... top coat over Watco oil

   My very first thought was WHY?..

   In my humble opinion. Which is not worth a ALOT.. I'd leave it as is..
   Gets dirty? SO what. Wipe it down with mineral spirits and wipe on a new coat! With wax on top..

1. 
   dukeone | Apr 02, 2006 07:47pm | #7

   Will: This maple table top was very poorly finished(by me) 20 years ago when I didn't have any wood finishing knowledge or experience. The table was bought unfinished and I slopped on something or other unevenly with many areas of bare wood exposed to soup, milk, tea and coffee.

   Last month: I sanded it down and put the Watco on for a little color then put on two coats of Interlux indoor varnish, oil based. It looks much better now but there are uneven areas of color, possibly from being used as a kitchen table with bare wood showing here and there. What could I have done given the above conditions? Any advice will be appreciated. The next piece I varnish will be better yet, as I try to analyze the current situation and ask those that know for advice.

   DukeKenneth Duke Masters

   The Bill of Rights December 15 1791 NRA Endowment Member

   LEAA Life Member

   CRPA Member

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Apr 03, 2006 03:32am | #8

   When refinishing, it almost always best to completely remove the old finish.  This is best accomplished with a chemical paint remover containing methylene chloride.  Sanding does not do a complete job.  This is particularly true of a heavily used item like a kitchen table.  Unless you are very thorough, sanding leaves some finish in the pores which will affect subsequent stains that you apply.

   There is nothing wrong with Watco as a finish but it is a finish that is intended for a surface that gets relatively little abuse.  It gives a "close to the wood" type finish that looks very nice on some types of furniture.  For everyday tables or surfaces that get some abuse, a film finish is more appropriate.  Film finishes are much more scratch and abrasion resistant and are more durable.

   The key is learn about different finishes and then choose the one that will give you the appearence and durability that the use of the item requires.Howie.........

1. 
   dukeone | Apr 03, 2006 04:18am | #9

   Howie: Thanks for the advice, especially that sanding doesn't get it all. Is varnish a good choice for a kitchen table? I think the areas of "blotchy" color are where the wood was bare and subject to food stains but I'm not sure. Would bleaching have helped in that case? Also the maple is a bit bland so I was trying to color it up a bit with the Watco.

   DukeKenneth Duke Masters

   The Bill of Rights December 15 1791 NRA Endowment Member

   LEAA Life Member

   CRPA Member