Hello all,
I have been using topcote for about 5 months and it sucks. Or I am a complete moron. (could be both 😉 I removed rust using a scotch brite sanding pads, cleaned the surfaces with mineral spirits, then used alchohol to celan the mineral spirits. I applied Topcote as instructed and within 2 months light rust began to surface. I repeated the whole thing again and now, another two months later, it has a thin light rust patches! What gives? Any other experiences out there?
Mike
please excuse my spelling.
Replies
I used topcote years ago, thought it was a spray lubricant,not really designed to prevent rust. But it was way overpriced then, and probably today. Once you remove the rust, I'd suggest monthly waxing in the summer months, or else liberally apply talc powder(baby powder).
says it does both. It does slicken up a lot better though.
Mikeplease excuse my spelling.
I agree. Stops my rust build up for a week or so.
I have started using a product made by Starrett called M1 All Purpose Lubricant. Keeps the rust away and does not harm wood.
Hard to find but 12oz spray can about $10.
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Michael in San Jose
"In all affairs it's a healthy thing now and then to hang a question mark on the things you have long taken for granted." Bertrand Russell
Michael,
I have a lot of respect for Starret stuff. I'll definately look it up.
Thanks.
Mikeplease excuse my spelling.
I use Empire Topsaver to remove rust from items that might get a bit on them at times. It does a great job of disolving the rust. After cleaning the surface with Topsaver, I reach for the tried-and-true Johnson's Paste Wax. A light coat of Johnson's every few weeks is all I need unless I lay a sweaty arm across my table saw and don't wipe it up immediately. Johnson's also works great on parts of jugs that slide across a saw or other surface. Don't make the mistake I made and pick up the Minwax Paste Wax -- it may be great for finishing but it has little, if any, oil content and sucks on tool surfaces.
Bill Arnold
Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.
I use paste wax, renewed every couple of months, and it keeps the top slick and rust free. I do that on a jointer bed that I restored from a rusty condition, and it has held up fine there too. Ditto the comment re using it on jigs ("Jugs"?) too, over shellac based sanding sealer which is slick to begin with (sterrates, or something like that mixed into the shellac). My last application was an experiment with automotive wax, and so far so good. Actually dried and wiped off better. I'd keep it simple, rather than high-tech.
Using auto waxes for machines is risky, most auto waxes contain silicones which will cause problems later when you apply the finish.
John W.
Thanks - I hadn't though of that risk
I use a spray-on product with a wax base. It seems to work very well. But for tools that get a lot of use you have to re-apply frequently.
Keep in mind that nothing is forever when topcoating your tools. Many folks treat the surface at least monthly--I wax every two months. The coating is worn away as wood glides over it. This removes the coating and exposes the metal to the moisture in the wood and air.
I find the periodic maintenence more of the preventive than the product used.
Also, you might be careful using alcohol on the surface. Not only does mineral spirits evaporate without residue, the alcohol absorbs moisture itself and if the alcohol is old, it will contain water mixed in it. Use just the mineral spirits. One reason kerosene is used to remove the shipping gunk (cosmoline)is that it leaves a slight residue of lubricant on the metal surfaces which reduce rusting.
Thanks everyone,
I think that I will try the ol' paste wax route.
Mikeplease excuse my spelling.
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