I’m building a book case (x3) with maple and plan to just lacquer them. However, I have a few nicks in some of the figured areas after using the thickness plane. Should I mix some saw dust and glue to repair or is there something else to do. This trim is on the front of the shelves (stile) and is obvious on close inspection.
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Replies
Ideally, you'd want to remove all the tearout altogether through standard surface preparation techniques (planing, scraping, and sanding), but short of that, you can try a filler. The key to this technique is to make it look like a natural blemish rather than filler.
I've had best results with Shellac burn-in sticks. These are available through some online or mailorder retailers. Basically, it's a stick of colored shellac that you melt with a soldering iron into the blemish area. When it dries, it sands down nicely and can be finished.
You can make you're own by mixing saw dust and shellac, and then apply it in several layers until it's built up to be level with the surface.
Yellow glue and sawdust also works, but I'm never happy with how that looks once you apply the finish. Jeff Miller has a video on our site in which he demonstrates this technique using cyanoacrylate glue (Krazy Glue) and it looks okay.
The key thing to remember is that anywhere glue residue is left on the wood, the finish won't penetrate, and that can make a blemish stand out more than the blemish itself. My advice is to try a few of these methods on some scrap wood, then apply your finish, and see which method turns out best. Then use it on your bookcase.
Matt Berger
Fine Woodworking
Thank you very much. I like the idea of shellac and sawdust. I'm only going to use lacquer with no stain, so that should be the best option. Thanks again for the tip.Take careRon
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