I just changed out my all-purpose 1/2″ bandsaw blade for a 1/4″ blade to do some curve work (Michael Cullen’s bandsaw boxes) and can’t get it to hold a steady track on the tire. I’m using my trusty Grizzly 14″ G0555LANV. I’ve never had trouble tracking larger blades from 3/8 to 1/2″.
With very gradual adjusting of the wheel tilt, the blade will approach the crown and then with the tiniest further adjustment it will fall off to the opposite side; it does the same when I try to adjust it back in the opposite direction. I’m experienced and comfortable adjusting tension, guides, etc, pretty much follow the Snodgrass methods, and have not had this problem before. The saw has stock roller bearings which have served me well. I have cleaned the tires, but they have not been replaced in the 5 years I’ve been using the saw.
Hoping for some experience and wisdom here. Thanks.
Replies
Only on that bandsaw blade, saw hasn't given you trouble ---- maybe it's the blade. I'd blame the blade before I would blame the saw. It wouldn't be the first lemon.
Sounds like you’ve got the BS all dialed in. Agree with Pantalones that the blade might be the issue. Maybe try a 3/8” or a different 1/4” and see if it tracks. (Reply meant for OP)
The entire wheel is crowned, it can't "fall off" as you say. As you tilt the wheel, the blade simply finds a new position to ride on which affects the direction of cut. It may not be in the exact center but it doesn't matter, as long as it runs smooth and you can adjust your guides as necessary.
JMHO, but I concern myself more with the cut than where the blade is on the wheel.
Thanks Ed, but it's doing exactly what I said. The "new position" it finds is at either extreme edge of the wheel, or it falls off. I do concern myself with the exact position of the blade when I'm using a wider blade, as doing so pretty much eliminates drift; not so important when freehanding curves.
Just a guess but is the crown on each wheel in line with the other one?
The blade always tries to climb to the high point and for it run off obviously says something is not right. Makes me wonder if it is trying to "swap wheel" it is trying to climb.
But without seeing your saw it is really hard to do more than just stab in the dark.
Only other that comes to mind is something is wrong with the shape of the crown? Not pronounced enough?
I run 1/4" blades almost exclusively and never had a bit of an issue. Really has to be something out of adjustment of alignment.
Curiousty got me and I did a little reading. Ran across this, worth a try.....
https://forums.woodnet.net/showthread.php?pid=7521286
So, here is the fix. I reduced the tension as low as it would go, then slowly increased it.. ended with much less tension than it was before. now, the blade will track and stay in the center of the top wheel. The tracking knob works as it should...
I assume this new blade is maybe a tad shorter? or the tension was just far too high to begin with.
All is well now. Thanks for help.
I had the same issue but w/ a 14” Rockwell but using a 1/4 inch blade. Doing everything you did gave me the same results. Turned out the tires where worn. New tires corrected the issue, been working just as it should for couple of years now.
Good discussion and this is exactly why bandsaws have tracking adjustment, to compensate for blades and align the cut.
Too many people worry so much about getting the blade "perfectly" centered, it would seem that they don't really understand what tracking is used for.
Glad you solved your issue.
Thanks for all of the contributions. What makes the most sense is Blue Thumb's resolution of the exact problem for which I initiated this discussion. I'll change out the tires and revisit this thread with my results.
Tracking problem resolved. As Blue Thumb suggested, it was as simple as replacing my 5 year old tires. The 1/4" blade now adjusts and tracks as expected. Thanks all for your responses.
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