Can someone tell me if I can add Transtint dye to Helmsman Oil Based poly? Posts I’m reading seem to say that the poly needs to be water based.
I tested it, and applied 2 coats of the mix. It seems fine. Its adhering well. Rubbing with a wet rag, after 24 hours of drying, and the rag came away with yellow stains from the amber dye. Maybe this is a dumb question, but does that mean its not compatible?
Thanks in advance.
Scott
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The following comes from http://www.homesteadfinishing.com, which is Jeff Jewitt's site. Jeff is the packager of the TransTint Dyes.
TransTint Dyes can be added to some oil-based products. The dye can be added directly to linseed or pure tung oil. To add to oil based varnishes mix 1 part dye with 4 parts acetone before adding to the finish. Do not exceed 2 oz. of this mixture per quart. Shake solution thoroughly before applying to wood. TransTints cannot be added to most of the “Danish” oils or finishes thinned with a high ratio of mineral spirits.
Should I just substitute "polyureathane" for Varnish in that tip? I was using oil based poly since I've heard its tougher than water based. Maybe I should just stick with water based poly.
Polyurethane varnish is varnish, which in single part oil based "polyurethane" varnishes is alkyd modified with some polyurethane resin. The advantage of polyurethane is a small improvement in abrasion resistance, of benefit for floor finishes. Othewise it is very similar to traditional resin varnishes.
But spar varnish, such as the Minwax Helmsman, is designed to be flexible to cope with the wide temperature and humidity swings in exterior use and consequently is a bit soft for furniture or floor use.
(In my opinion, the Minwax isn't among the top tier of spar varnishes and should only be used exterior settings where it won't get direct sunlight. In full sun I doubt you would get a year of service.)
Thanks for clearing that up.Can you recommend a decent varnish to use with the Transtint dye? I'm building some locker/cabinet/bench built-ins for a mudroom, and don't want any unnecessary maintenance.
Frankly, I don't recommend mixing dye into any varnish to be used as a toned finish. Varnishes are brushed on finishes and when the dye is added any small unevenness stands out. Toned finishes are best used in spray applications where multiple coats of a fast drying finish can be applied evenly.
Generally it is much easier, and the results more satisfactory, if you separate the stain/dye from the top coats. You can mix the Trans Tint with water, apply that to bare wood, and then apply the top coats after the dye has dried. Remember that when testing the dye to see how concentrated to make the mix and whether you like the color to apply at least one coat of your top coat over the dye, since dye can look very different when in dries from what it will look like when under the top coat.
Behlen Rockhard is a good varnish, particularly over darker colors, and for lighter colors Pratt & Lambert 38 or McCloskey Heirloom are good. Waterlox makes some good wiping varnishes, but these take quite a ffew more coats for protection.
No matter what finish you add TT to, you probably will experience the same thing with the water in the rag re-activating the dye.
Once you get to the color you like, seal the prior applications in with your mix without the TT and that should take care of the problem.
Jeff Jewitt
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