I’m about to start a LARGE table for a friend’s new conference room. It will be 42 – 48 inches wide and about 14 – 15 feet long. (obviously plans not yet finalized!) All constructed of 100 year old salvaged sugar and/or ponderosa pine. The top will be finished to about 3 inches thick so it will be HEAVY. I hope to do a trestle design. With size and weight involved I’m thinking I should have a double post and beam. The feet will be cut from 6 X 8 pine knee braces of the same vintage. Should posts be about same dimensions as feet? Any suggesions on how to join the feet and posts? I imagine with some stout pinned MT. Any sort of diagnol braces needed at ends or will the two posts suffice? Lastly I’d like to give the top a slight elliptical shape. (sides as well as into and along the breadboard ends) How to cut such along such a length? Any advice much appreciated even if you think I’m crazy. Thanks in advance, Rich Collins
Replies
The first question is whether you have a clear path that gets this huge table from your workshop to the conference room -- including space for the forklift that will be moving it. It'd be a PITA to complete the table, but find that it won't fit around a corner someplace along that path.
If I understand your description, you're asking whether you can just put the trestles under the table and expect it to stand. The answer is no. If somebody pushes horizontally on the table's end, the whole thing will just fall over and smash a lot of stuff very flat. You do need bracing. The traditional scheme has a stretcher running between the trestles, and the joinery into the trestles provides the bracing. You should look carefully at articles or photos of traditional trestle tables.
As to making the slight elliptical shape, what's the question? You already must have the capability to cut through these 3" thick timbers, so why not use that tool to cut the curve? Are you worrying about how to lay out the curve?
Jamie, Thanks for the input. First of all I plan to bring up components and assemble it in the room, especially the top pieces as individuals or at most glued up pairs. I had intended to use stretchers between the double posts - probably a 2 X 8 or 2 X 10 piece of stock. Will that provide sufficient bracing to avoid he calamity that you described? Lastly myquestionon the elliptcal shaped should have benn more specific regarding layout. Cutting and finishing the edge will not be a problem. Again thanks for the info. Rich
For laying out that long curve along the edge, start with a long straight stick with uniform grain. It should be thin enough to be flexible over the curve you need, but not floppy. In your case, something like a 3/4"x3/4" cross-section should do. Clamp some blocks to be pivot points at the ends of the plank, and then deflect the stick in the middle until you get a curve you like. Put a clamp or a weight in the middle. Draw a line along the stick on the plank. Cut to the line. To make the symmetrical cut on the other side of the table, measure the center deflection you made on the first plank. Mark that on the other plank, and repeat the procedure.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled