Replies

1. 
   MBerger | Apr 24, 2008 02:39pm | #1

   I guess my first question is, did you do that entire process the first time around? If so, which part caused the undulations in the surface?

   It sounds awfully labor intensive to re-mill the entire table top. Though, it would solve your problem.

   Do you own a large bench plane? A #4-1/2 and up? If so, you might want to tune it up and get to work flattening the tabletop by hand. If you're up for the task, there are a few articles on our site that will help. I'd estimate it at about 8 hours of planing and surface prep. You might not even have to do the underside???

   Get back to me and I'll see what else I can dig up.

   - Matt

1. 
   dripdmd | Apr 24, 2008 04:37pm | #3

   Thanks for the reply Matt.  I glued three of the  center boards first and found only a slight discrepency in their flatness.  Then glued-up (after a trial dry run) only one board at a time to see each one do either well or only a slight variation.  I considered that some hand planing would be needed anyway but when the job was finally completed I saw  more surface variation than I anticipated.  I do have a #5 plane, but not of high quality.  I'm up for doing the job by hand but thought that the option of tearing it down to 4 or 5 panels and reassembling might provide a more successful approach.  I would appreciate any more input on hand planing the surface.  Thanks for the efforts.

1. 
   MBerger | Apr 25, 2008 11:48pm | #4

   Since you have it all thought out, and feel confident in the process, go ahead and rip, mill and reassemble as you planned. It really will work, I just was hoping to save you the trouble.

   Here are a few articles that might provide more detail on how to flatten the tabletop without deconstructing it:

   Related Articles:http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=24092

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/subscription/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=2411

   Video Demo:http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=29716

1. 
   dripdmd | Apr 26, 2008 12:11am | #5

   Thanks, I appreciate the response and will let you know the decision and results.

2. 
   tom77 | Apr 24, 2008 04:27pm | #2

   You could also look around for a local shop with a 48" wide belt sander. Some of them will rent time or do it for you. For example, a local shop that I use has a 42" timesaver and charge $100 per hour. A job like yours would take them less than 1/2 hour.

   I recently finished a table with a 43x96 top. I used the method you outlined and got great results. One important key is to flatten and thickness your stock before glue up. Then the alignment key does a great job during glue up. Another key is to machine the slot from the same side of the stock. I used the top side for obvious reasons.

   Good luck, Tom.