Unfortunately, I hadn’t seen the previous entries in this forum on the curing problems with Tried and True Varnish Oil before using it on my latest project. Based on Chris Becksvoort’s article in FWW and the video on the site, it looked like a good finish for my 8-drawer tiger maple dresser (see attached pics). I put 4 coats on the drawer fronts and the top and 3 coats on the case sides and frame, allowing at least 2 days to dry between coats. The first 3 coats seemed to cure fine in my basement shop, which has my home’s furnace running a lot this time of the year – so the room is warm (> 70 F) and dry. However, the 4th coat, especially on the chest top appears very reluctant to cure, now after 7 days. I’ve been rubbing it down with a cotton rag or wool sock twice a day and yet it still feels somewhat tacky, while the drawers and rest of the case seem relatively hard and smooth.
It’s likely I haven’t read all of the threads related to Tried and True on this forum back in the spring of ’02, so maybe I’ve missed what I’m looking for. Based on what I’ve described, can I expect this finish to gradually cure or should I consider stripping the finish at least from the chest top. If it is likely that the finish will ultimately cure, how long should it take? If I should strip it, what method is recommended? Also, what about using a different linseed oil based finish, like Watco or Minwax Antique Oil – would a top coat aid in the curing of the bottom coats of the Tried and True Varnish? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Edited 12/26/2003 4:20:55 PM ET by Mike
Replies
Mike,
I'd love to take a look at your photos, but they're just too darned big for me to bother with @ 2 MB each!
You may want to search under "Ifranview" for threads related to reducing the size of your attachments.
Thanks,
Paul
Sorry - I realized the attachments were too big after I posted. Try the smaller images attached now. Thanks.
still real big--get them down to under 100.Gretchen
These are as small as I can get them.
I took the liberty of reducing your photos to a couple of thumbnail shots so people can see the basic details of your photos, Mike.
The rule of thumb used is 40MB, I believe, to be kind to people on dial-up access.
Cheers and Happy Xmas,
eddie
edit: Nice timber and the job looks good as well
Edited 12/26/2003 2:20:06 PM ET by eddie (aust)
The other reason for using the small pics is to not use up your allotment of space. The original poster may want to go back and delete the gigantic pictures.Gretchen
Mike,
These pictures make it easier to see the nice job you did. . .View Image
Thanks for compressing the pictures and related comments. Anyone have any other suggestions or experiences concerning the original question - how to get T&T Varnish Oil to cure or will it ever cure? Or any suggestions on the best way to strip and start over? Thanks.
Mike, I'll suggest running this whole issue past Jeff Jewitt at Homestead Finishing. Also, I guess there's an article in FWW #153 that deals with T&T -- I'm at work, so no idea what's in the article.
Homestead is closed from now until Jan 4th or 5th, but they have a forum. Actually, for this problem, I'd email him directly or call.
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com
forestgirl Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Mike,
FG posted a good suggestion on contacting Jeff Jewitts company. You can also contact the makers of Tried and True directly. I've found them to be very helpful.
http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/
Good luck,
Lar
I will never use their varnish mix again. Used it according to the directions and ended up having to redo the piece. It simply would not dry and we're talking about weeks of cure time in a warm shop. Don't trust the stuff. Since it isnt cheap I took the rest fo the can back to Woodcraft and they of course refunded my money but I did have to listen to them say they had never had a problem. Their danish oil and wax mix has given me no problems.
Sorry to hear that. I've been using all 3 Tried and True products for over a year with no problems. I apply extremely thin coats.
Edited 12/27/2003 10:47:03 AM ET by Lar
Mike,
I had the same experience a couple of years ago with Tried and True. I used their Varnish oil for a maple table I built for a client. The table sat in my woodshop, which is also very warm and dry, for a week. When I delivered the table, I had to ask the client to "go easy on the top" for a few days. I thought it was just slow, but after a short time, it was clear that this stuff just doesn't cure. You can keep rubbing it down so it is no longer tacky, but the finish is ruined by then. Luckily, my client said it was OK with them to leave it that way, but it has been an embarassment for me to think back on it, and I know one day I will have to refinish that table top for them.
I used the product just the way the instructions tell you to -- I applied thin coats and wiped it down with a cotton cloth. But it didn't help.
I have a whole can of this stuff in my woodshop -- unopened. If anyone wants it, lt me know!
Mike,
I suspect this is aporblem with the dryers used in the finish. Did you open a new can for the fourth coat? If so you are probably using a different batch which has bad dryers in it. I had this problem recently with two different manufactuers of marine polyurethane. They wer Interlux and Petite. Inboth cases the same problem occurred, much like you describe. I put on a couple of coats, changed cans and suddenly the product would not cure. This happened to me twice last summer on two separate boat projects. When I talked to the manufacturer the first time it happened they confirmed that the batch I had was having trouble with bad dryers and they were recalling it. On the second job I simply returned the can suspecting that the dryers many manufacturers use come from a common source. If a dryer is bad, it shows up in many products from different manufacturers.
TDF
Mike,
I used the Tried and True varnish oil a few years back on a William and Mary lowboy, where I though the oil would provide a more historically accurate finish. I don't believe the Becksvoort article was out at that time. I did get the finish to cure, but it took far longer than the can says. The key is put it on in very thin coats, but even then it seems to be S-L-O-W. The Becksvoort's idea of heating the oil would help in this regard, because the oil is thick, and difficult to apply thinly . To be honest, when it comes to oil finishes, I'm skeptical at best. They look great, but that look does not last long, as they oxidize rather quickly. The idea of delivering a piece with a can oil for future applications, is something, I don't think I could do with a straight face. The lowboy taught me that the way to get the look of a oil finish, is to use shellac over oil. Working this way I can get the same look in a couple of days and that look will last far longer than oil alone. If the piece were mine, I'd wipe down the top with naphtha or maybe lacquer thinner, and then let it cure for a while until it's tack free, and shellac it. Since I have not done anything like this, what I'm saying might work, or it might be a disaster, but it's what I'd do ( the true test of any advise).
Rob Millard
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