Tried and True Varnish Oil Application Question
aleyoung86
| Posted in Finishing on
I am building an ash side table and have gone for an all hand planed finish. I intend to use the Tried and True Varnish Oil on it, but in reading the instructions it states the surface should be buffed with 0000 steel wool first then a very light coating of oil applied with a lint free cloth. My question is, what is the purpose of the 0000 wool on a hand planed surface? Thank you for your advice.
Replies
Most of the time a hard planed service will still have grain raising issues when it gets varnished from what I read. You could try the varnish on the underside of the side table and see and feel if the grain raises. If not, then you probably won't need the steel wool. Myself, I plane, scrape with a cabinet scraper and card scraper, sand from 120 to 220 grit (at least) and then use the steel wool after the first coat of varnish, because that is what I've have read is necessary to get the desired results.
Okay, thank you. I didn't do much with the underside other than the lunch box planer.
I've used T&T on many projects and not found it necessary to start with wool. Do apply very thin coats or it will take forever to dry. It helps if you can warm the oil up before application and it's completely non-toxic.
Thank you for the advice.
The MSDS reads 90% and up to 100% Linseed oil and 5-10% Beeswax, why even bother having an application method, its Linseed Oil, apply and wipe the excess and repeat until the desired effect is reached.
https://ardec.ca/media/catalog/msds/msds-varnish-oil-artdec-english.pdf
Found this one on the companies website. Describes varnish oil as modified linseed oil and sylvetac resin. There is no mention of beeswax. Maybe I'm reading it wrong.
https://s3.gomedia.ws/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2016/03/FBC-TRIED-AND-TRUE-VO_MTR_GHSF_EN.pdf
Not exactly, Gulfstar. The Tried and True Varnish Oil is "<75% polymerized linseed oil", and "<25% natural resin", which the manufacturer describes as pine resin.
My short answer to the OP's question is that I see no reason to use the steel wool before the first coat on a handplaned surface. And I have used it on ash with very nice results. The enclosed photo shows the end of my Roubo bench. I left the top surface unfinished, but you can see how nicely it plays with the ash on the side of the top and the sipo endblock.
I think this finish is great in those situations where I want that silky satin finish that reminds me of a very old stairway handrail that has been burnished by tens of thousands of hands sliding along it over the years. But I only employ it when I feel like taking my time over the course of a couple of weeks.
I'm not saying this is the only or best way to use this product, but it works for me: I plane/scrape/sand it to the final finish level as usual, finding no need to burnish with steel wool before the first coat. I apply a dab of the T&T with an old T-shirt or similar, and rub it in very well. I continue to massage it in, adding a little more oil if necessary, for about ten minutes. I come back in an hour or two and wipe it completely dry. Then I continue to come back each hour or so to wipe off any bleedback from pores until the bleedback ceases. This really depends on the species, but I've had to do so for up to 8 hours. Then I leave it in a warm place and ignore it for at least 24 hours, 48 is better. The manufacturers say you can "burnish" it with 0000 steel wool between coats, but I find spending a good deal of time rubbing/burnishing with a clean cotton rag works fine. I will often burnish and massage with a bare hand---it's a non-toxic finish. Then I repeat the process until I get the depth of finish I want, again giving at least 24 hours to dry between coats (2-3 days if I can) wiping, and burnishing as before. I leave the last coat to cure for at least a week. At that point, I might decide to add an additional 1-2 coats depending on how it looks.
This oil also lends itself well to the wet sanding process Russ Filbeck uses on his spokeshaves and furniture (though he prefers Liberon Oil). Here I'll apply the oil, wetsand to bring up a slurry, continue sanding until it thickens, then leave be for an hour, then proceed to wipe off as usual. Like Russ, I'll start with 220 grit for the first coat, then progress through 320 to 400 grit with subsequent coats. The Liberon Oil has drying agents in it, so stiffens up a bit quicker.
Obviously, none of this makes sense if you are in a hurry, but in the right setting it can be a very satisfying and Zen-like process, and results in a beautiful finish which begs to be touched and handled during and after the finishing.
Thank you very much for the detailed response. Your workbench looks great. This will be a bedside table, so I feel pretty comfortable using this as a finish. I wasn't anticipating finishing the underside of the table or the back side of the front, back, or side skirts. I'll finish the drawer though.
Best of luck and lots of pleasure with the project, and please revisit this thread with your experience and some photos when completed.
I've used the Tried and True varnish on a few projects on projects that were hand planed. I did NOT use 0000 steel wool prior to application. All came out great. I really like this finish. If I don't use shellac, it's quite likely my go to oil moving forward. There is a really good article in Issue 13 of Mortise and Tennon on linseed oil in general as well as a positive mention of Tried and True.
Gulfstar is right. I use T&T's Danish Oil and just wipe on, wait five minutes, and wipe till dry to the touch. T&T recommends extremely thin coats. I've found it's okay to flood it on and spread it and rub it in -- it's rather erotic, actually. Seriously, it's very satisfying and leaves the surface almost dry. Wait 24 hours and recoat. I haven't found a need for steel wool, but I do sand to 1,000 grit with a random orbit sander.
I see 3 recipies, mine is 2014, Jim is 2015 , what year is yours Tim? Must be this one, also 2015 : https://s3.gomedia.ws/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2014/11/Varnish-Oil-MSDS.pdf
So they went from beeswax to rosin in 2015.
My batch is from 2019, but what is causing the confusion is that they have a variety of products. The one you are referring to is their "Original Wood Finish", and indeed has linseed oil and beeswax. They also have a "Danish Oil" which has walnut oil added to the linseed oil. They also polymerize their linseed oil which speeds drying time without adding the volatile additives found in "boiled" linseed oil. More info on their website: https://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/original-wood-finish/
I have no affiliation or connection to the company.
So why do they call this version "varnish oil"? As I recall, varnish is made when you heat (polymerize) oil and resin together. So there seems to be a lot of misdirection going on. I've used the original oil & wax version, and like it, but it sounds like the recommended applications are not interchangeable.
I'm not sure. I chose it based on the description. I'll be curious to see if it was a good choice or not as there seems to be a number of people who don't like the Tried and True finishes.
I have considered ordering some T&T to play with, but this is not the first time I have read about different names and applications, which is what caused me to pass on it in the past.
Start with the Danish Oil. I've used that and the varnish and can't tell the difference in application or appearance.
This is the easiest finish I've ever used.
You can’t go wrong with this danish oil, it’s 100% linseed oil ! Then why call it Danish ?
https://s3.gomedia.ws/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2014/11/Danish-Oil-MSDS.pdf
Every other brand of Danish Oil I've looked at is a mix of BLO and varnish (with solvents). Maybe they buy their BLO from Denmark.
My process is the same as @TboneTim and it works great if you have patience. I have not tried wet sanding with T&T. On a walnut live edge slab I found sanding to a very fine grit 800 provided the best results with the T&T varnish oil.
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When done sanding, dampen wood with water (just dampen). The grain will raise as wood dries. As soon as it’s dry, sand off raised grain using the highest grit paper you sanded with. This prevents grain from raising when it gets wet from the finish/oil. Yes, to all you doubters, it works.
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