Replies

1. 
   gpwest | Apr 09, 2002 08:05pm | #1

   Todd,

     You could use a table saw:  rip off just under 1/8" from each stile (the vertical member) then clean up the saw blade marks and fine tune it with a bench plane. Seems like that would be about as accurate and fast as any.   GP

1. 
   sorethum1 | Apr 09, 2002 10:03pm | #2

   A table saw would be good, but I don't have one.  How about a circular saw with a guide or fence? Sounds risky. Todd

1. 
   sschefer | Apr 09, 2002 10:27pm | #3

   Your router will work just fine and you'll have a nice edge when you get done. You'll need a flush trim bit with a bearing or a straight bit with a guide bushing and a straight board to clamp the work to and use as a guide. The important part here is the guide board. If it is not straight you door edges wont be either.

   Try it on a test piece first to see if it works for you.Steve - in Northern California

1. 
   sorethum1 | Apr 09, 2002 10:31pm | #4

   Steve, why would I need a bearing or bushing if I'm using a straight guide?  Doesn't the guide act as the control, i.e., it keeps the bit a specific distance into the edge?

1. 
   sschefer | Apr 09, 2002 10:46pm | #5

   You can using a straight guide too. I just like using the flush cut bearing bits or straight cut and a bushing for this type of work and thought you might too. Either way will work, all you need to do really is guide the router with as little human intervention as possible.

   Steve - in Northern California

   Edited 4/9/2002 3:52:12 PM ET by Steve Schefer

2. 
   sorethum1 | Apr 09, 2002 10:55pm | #6

   So does the bit have the bearing on top or bottom? Guide piece on top of the stile or below?  I'm starting to like this approach, but I've only used rabbeting bits with bearings, and those run along the piece itself.  Have patience. I'll get it. Todd

3. 
   sschefer | Apr 09, 2002 11:04pm | #7

   Todd, I've only purchased the flush trim bits with the bearings on the bottom. In this case you would put the edge guide board beneath the work and adjust it so that the bite is no deeper then the actual bit blade surface. This keeps you from accidently taking too deep of a bite. With a straight cut bit, you would put the edge guide board on top of the work with the bushing riding against the edge. With a good sharp bit you could likely trim the full 1/4 in one pass but I would not encourage that. I would recommend you take 1/16" bites just like you would with a jointer. Steve - in Northern California

4. 
   sorethum1 | Apr 09, 2002 11:08pm | #8

   Thanks very much.  I'll look into it. Todd

5. 
   observer | Apr 10, 2002 01:48am | #9

   I use both top and bottom bearing versions (bottom bearing version is a template bit) but in a case like this I would use a bottom bearing version where the template sits on top of the stile. I find it much easier to align the template when I can rest it on the workpiece and just squeak the template up to the marks I made before clamping. The template makes a nice level surface for the router to ride on and prevents any markings to the workpiece. The only consideration is that the guide be straight and smooth edged.

6. 
   SgianDubh | Apr 10, 2002 06:50am | #10

   If  you don't have table saws, jointers, etc., do you have a router and side fence? You don't need a fancy bearing bit. Put a standard straight bit in your router, mount the side fence to cut off about 1/16" , and cut away all the edge of the door you need except a wee bit that must be left for the fence to run against, thus providing a register, say a wee sliver about 1/16" square. This sliver could be taken off with a block plane, or even sandpaper at a push. Slainte, RJI've seen more sense in an empty wallet. (Anon.)

7. 
   sschefer | Apr 10, 2002 07:05am | #11

   Sgian, do you ever find it hard to control at the beginning and end of the pass. When I try it your way I have problems so I switched to the methods that I proposed earlier. My router skills just aren't good enough to do it your way. Not enough wood and not enough time... The woes of a part time wood working enthusiast.Steve - in Northern California

8. 
   SgianDubh | Apr 10, 2002 07:32am | #12

   That's a good question, Steve. No it's not easy, but it's like using a hand plane, so.... analogously, plenty of downward pressure at the front at the beginning of the cut, and plenty of downward pressure at the back at the end of the cut. With a router, plenty of downwards and sideways pressure to the front at the beginning of the cut,.......I'm sure you've got the idea? Practice, practice, practice. Slainte, RJ.I've seen more sense in an empty wallet. (Anon.)

9. 
   sschefer | Apr 10, 2002 07:42am | #13

   Glad to hear you say that... Now where did I put the router food.....

   Thanks for the encouragement.

   Steve - in Northern California

10. 
    SgianDubh | Apr 10, 2002 08:18am | #14

    And Steve, maybe you're working with the standard side fence inserts that come with the machine? They are usually plastic and adjustable to close up the gap at the cutter, and almost always not very helpful, shall we just say. Make a side fence out of a single piece of timber that spans both sides of the standard fence, and screw it in place with the machine screws provided. Eventually you'll cut through this contraption, which is actually useful for some larger diameter bits, but if you make two or three new timber fences at one go you can switch fences according to the cut needed and the bit used. Routers are really quite simple machines, if somewhat overated in their ability to be a woodworkers cure all. All they do is hack out bits of wood, but they do need some practice to master their range of abilities, and to get the best out of them. Slainte, RJ.I've seen more sense in an empty wallet. (Anon.)

2. 
   finebuilder | Apr 10, 2002 03:39pm | #15

   Quick question, are you only taking off the door lip or are youtaking off the reveal and the rabbit cut equally?  I assume that the doors do not meet as all four sides were rabitted.  If this is the case why cut the sides, cosmetics?

                                     Miami

1. 
   sorethum1 | Apr 10, 2002 06:38pm | #16

   I'm taking off the outsides of the stiles/verticals, to fit the size of the cabinet.  the rabbets are inside and not effected. 

   I like the template idea because it give me more surface area to work on, and this cut is likely to be very noticeable.  My guide fence is nothing great, and wobble is likely along the 42" run, especially if only 1/16" is being used by the guide.  I thought I could use a fence along the outside of the router as I've done before, if I could square it and find some other support under the router.  The template provides support, but then I've got to make sure it's square and smooth also.  todd

1. 
   sschefer | Apr 10, 2002 08:46pm | #17

   So how many do you need to trim? Does it make sense to build a jig?Steve - in Northern California

1. 
   sorethum1 | Apr 10, 2002 11:07pm | #18

   4 stiles.  If I take it all off one side, then only 2 sides total.  If I take a little off each side, then 4.  I'm now leaning toward setting a straight edge on the frame, and running the router against it with a simple straight bit, but I bought a trim bit with bearing in case I want to put a template on top of the frame for a better base.  Todd

1. 
   sschefer | Apr 11, 2002 12:21am | #19

   Sounds like you've got a handle on it.. Like Sgian recommends, practice, practice, practice...

   Good LuckSteve - in Northern California

2. 
   sorethum1 | Apr 11, 2002 07:31pm | #20

   I really appreciate all the suggestions.  I pretty much botched it anyway--but I fixed it, I think.  I couldn't seem to get everything clamped just right to use the trim bit, so I ended up trying to run it through the router on the table.  The first effort wasn't too bad, with just a bobble here and there, but the second floated all over on me, making a mess.  So I clamped the frame to the workbench, did some hand planing and finished with an orbital sander.  A lot of mess, but the result looks pretty good.  Thanks again for the support. Todd