Replies

1. 
   jackplane | Jan 25, 2005 11:44pm | #1

   Take off the stops and rip them on the tablesaw, then give 'em a pass with your plane.

   Stay safe.

2. 
   Steinmetz | Jan 26, 2005 12:20am | #2

   Pax,

   Punch thru the brads and remove the stop beads.Use a drift punch not a tapered nail set. You can grind down a nailset to remove it's taper
   Tack each piece to a rabbetted block of hardwood
   and leave the 1/4 " 'Proud' of the block's edge.
   Using a block plane,Plane away the excess
   and mark it's location for later reinstallation.

   When all pieces are planed flush with the block , paint the inside vertical face of each mould the same color as the door(So it won't show bare wood through the glass)

   Also with the plane, plane a small chamfer to 'Knock off' the sharp corners

   Tack the glass mould back in by sliding the hammer
   along the glass, so as not to strike the pane
   (Thereby preventing further 'Pain'. Since the mould is now very thin, you might snip off the nails points to prevent any splitting

   Good luck
   And thanks you much for your service to our great country

   Steinmetz
   Steinmetz.

1. 
   paxtonm | Jan 26, 2005 12:10pm | #3

   Thanks for the suggestions, but I think I did not make the problem clear enough.  My real problem is how to get them out to trim them, as I fastened them to both the wood and the pane with silicone caulk.  I can't really pry them out without breaking the glass, so I am wondering if there is a way to trim them without removing them.

   Thanks again,

   Michael

1. 
   lwj2 | Jan 26, 2005 02:14pm | #4

   You might try drilling them out with a Forstner bit and a brace so as to exert minimum pressure.Leon Jester

2. 
   WillGeorge | Jan 26, 2005 02:58pm | #5

   I'm not trying to be a smart a.. REALLY.. but without seeing exactally what you have I'll just put my two cents in.. OK?

   "The problem I have is that the glass stop is about 1/4 inch too wide, and is therefore visible from the outside.  Any ideas on how to trim them without breaking the glass?"

   Do you have access to a router of some kind? If so, you may want to try setting the bit depth 1/16 or so short of the glass. I would think you would need some sort of jig to guide it and some GOOD EYE PROTECTION... Think about the bit style for your final form you want. After most of the wood has been hogged out, trim to the glass with a razor.

   If the style of your project allows, adding new trim to what you have to cover. Contrasting wood or something that looks good to you. Amazing what you can do with trim pieces if you like working that way.

   Good luck And thanks you much for your service to our great country.. Steinmetz was first and I second (From a old Army Guy.. Second Armord, 16th. Artillary)

3. 
   Steinmetz | Jan 26, 2005 04:42pm | #7

   PAx, It's me again,If you punch through the small brads holding the moulding, AND use a couple of single edge razor blades AND some WD 40
   and a thin putty knife, once you pry up the first moulding (From the center up,!)the rest should be easier Squirt the WD40 into the area touching the glass to soften the silicone, then run your blade across to create a groove to allow more WD to penetrate.The putty knife is inserted under the mould toward the glass to pry up at the bottom center. By prying up at the center, the mould will flex enough to release the mitered corners. the other three will come out easier. (Like taking olives out of a jar; After the first comes out, the rest come easier) Steinmetz
   Use a hair drier but don't concentrate the heat in any one spot (LOW setting)
   Usually the removable mold on an exterior door faces the interior
   the glazing material (Putty) should face the outside. No putty on the inside

1. 
   paxtonm | Jan 27, 2005 12:20pm | #9

   Steinmetz,

   Thanks for all of the advice.  I think that the combination of heat and WD40 should do the trick.  Add that to the list of reasons why I can't wait to get home!  When I reinstall, I am going to use putty instead of wood stops.  Any suggestions on putty and coloring it to match the wood?

   Michael

1. 
   Steinmetz | Jan 27, 2005 05:32pm | #10

   Pax,
   NO! only apply Putty (Glazing compound) to the outside mould then press in the pane (Light) to 'Bed' the glass from the weather.
   The inside mould dosn't require any putty.
   HURRY HOME BUDDY
   Steinmetz

2. 
   paxtonm | Feb 24, 2005 07:39pm | #11

   Stein,

   Sorry for the long delay between responses, but I need a recommendation on tintable putty, so that I can order it and have it be there when I get home.  The glazing compound is for use in a cabinet, and will go on the inside of the door.  Anything else I need to know?

   Paxton

1. 
   joinerswork | Feb 25, 2005 05:27am | #12

   Paxton,

   I use DAP Painter's Putty.  Tint with universal colors, add powdered whiting to regain stiff consistancy.

   Regards,

   Ray

3. 
   jackplane | Jan 26, 2005 03:28pm | #6

   It's just silicone, which stays flexible. Just cut it with a utility knife and pry off the stops.

4. 
   mike4244 | Jan 26, 2005 06:01pm | #8

   Add narrow cove molding or champher profile to the outside, this will cover the exposed molding on the inside.

   mike