Replies

1. 
   Kell | Jun 17, 2004 03:23pm | #1

   jc,

   I use a rabbet plane but have also been known to grab a wide chisel and pare the cheeks.  Either way is correct in my opinion.

   Kell

2. 
   jackplane | Jun 17, 2004 03:41pm | #2

   A block rabbett plane is a fairly dedicated, sole purpose tool and not cheap for a good one. If need be, I usually carefully pare the tenon with a wide chisel.

3. 
   JohnWW | Jun 17, 2004 05:50pm | #3

   JC,

   A rabbet plane isn't the same as a shoulder plane, although they look somewhat the same.  The tool you are looking for is a shoulder plane and they are useful for cleaning up and fitting tenons.  The latest issue of Fine Woodworking has a tool review article on shoulder planes.

   John W. 

4. 
   scooter1 | Jun 17, 2004 06:47pm | #4

   I use a sharp chisel to remove most of the waste; then some 100 grit sandpaper to bevel the ends and remove just enough stock on the faces to make the tenon fit just ever so tight.

   I must say that the way I make tenons, very little adjustment is needed. I do them on the Radial Arm Saw and can pretty much dial them in so most of the time, no trimming is necessary, except of course for beveling the ends.

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

5. 
   Crunk | Jun 17, 2004 07:02pm | #5

   Buy a new Stanley shoulder plane from Garrett Wade or another supplier.  If you want to spend some premium bucks then check out the Veritas shoulder plane.

   The Stanley works fine.

   FWIW, I haven't had to touch the shoulder of a tenon in a long, long time.  Hand cut tenons should have ever-so-slightly undercut shoulders to make sure the gap closes.  This can and should be achieved straight from the saw, much as one strives for dovetails that fit straight from the saw. 

   Using a shoulder plane destroys the undercut.  I use one to trim the cheeks to fit.  A rasp works just as well.  IF you find yourself spending a lot of time monkeying and trimming tenons then you should practice more, or perhaps consider replacing your saw.  Anything needing more than a swipe or two over the cheeks with a shoulder plane or rasp represents a poorly cut joint.

   Some guys will say that a fine rasp leaves a surface that's not optimally smooth for glue adhesion.  This is a bunch of crap. 

6. 
   BG | Jun 18, 2004 01:26pm | #6

   JC,

   In case you haven't noticed, there is a nice video on shoulder planes on the home site here...
7. 
   RANGERP75R | Jun 18, 2004 05:06pm | #7

   jc

      I cut mortices first, then cut the tenon slightly over-size. Trim them with a shoulder plane for exact fit. Agree with Boss that you could do it with a rasp or WW file. The proper tool would depend on how "slight" my slightly over-size actually is.

      The bottom line is still a perfect fit regardless if you arrived in a limo, pick-up, Chevy or scooter. All get you from point A to point B.

   Regards...

   sarge..jt 

   Proud member of the :  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)