Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Jun 05, 2003 06:44pm | #1

   No experience here, but Penn State Industries makes a portable panel saw system that looks very nice, and I'd suggest considering it in your comparison shopping.  Click here for link to Penn State page on it.  Click here for reviews at one of the tool sites.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   RoyinMD | Jun 05, 2003 08:06pm | #2

   David,

   If your talking about the "Tru-Grip Clamp N Tool Guides", please correct me if I'm wrong, I bought a set of them at a WWshow years ago and love them. I have the 24", 36" and 50" clamps and two of the 50" back to back clamps. I use them mostly as router and skill saw guides, project holddowns and do some assembly work with them. The back to back clamps are great for clamping down to my fav workplace, a 4x4 x 3/4 on top of the table saw, three side access. Glue, paint and stain come right off the extruded aluminum.

   I'm thinking about the 8 foot guide and one more each of the 24/36/50 clamp to have two of each, more is gooder.

   My only complaints:

   The large labels on them are showing their age and I was not able to get them off easily and cleanly, YET! I know what they are, they don't need to keep advertising. If I wanted bumper stickers on my tools I'd stick them there.

   I don't think the clamping pressure is quite what is claimed, but plenty stronge.

   Enjoy, Roy

1. 
   jackiechan | Jun 09, 2003 07:23am | #22

   Roy,

   To remove the labels from your Tru-Grips, you can use a product called Goo-Gone (hardware stores, home centers).

   If you want the home remedy, try this one - lightly run a medium grit sandpaper over the labels to score the paper and remove the glossy surface.  Now cover the labels in regular mayonaise (the standard type - nothing low fat!).  Leave it on for about ten minutes, then wipe them off with a rag.  You can use the Scotch-Brite scrub spongue from the kitchen to remove any residual paper/glue.  (Yes - this does work.  It's great for unwanted bumper stickers on cars too!)Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

1. 
   RoyinMD | Jun 09, 2003 07:57pm | #24

   Hey Dan,

   I love Goo-Gone, great stuff, I keep 2 or 3 small bottles around the house and shop. I found that stuff years ago, I have two kids. Mayo huh, I was thinking a wet rag overnight and Goo-Gone in the morning. I just never have gotten around to it. I'm a great procrastinator, and I practice alot :o).

   Best Goo-Gone successes: Silly putty ground into carpet and a bumper sticker from the backside of an electric guitar.

   Enjoy, Roy

1. 
   jackiechan | Jun 11, 2003 05:31am | #25

   "...a bumper sticker from the backside of an electric guitar."

   Roy,

   I have been there!  My son is almost two, and takes great pleasure in trying to jam Play-Doh through the strings and into the sound port of my Martin acoustic!  (He has been successful twice.)  He only likes to flip the toggle switches on my electric', nothing messy and permanent - yet!  Needless to say, my guitars stay in their cases or up out of reach.Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

1. 
   RoyinMD | Jun 11, 2003 08:10pm | #28

   Dan,

   Remember to check the AMP KNOBS before turning it ON! My kids are older and I've only been playing the guitar for a few years. Your son will understand the rules at about 5!

   Enjoy, Roy

3. 
   Kell | Jun 05, 2003 08:30pm | #3

   David,

   I agree with Roy.  I have a 50 and 24 inch and use them frequently.  They make an excellent straight edge for cutting or routing.  The labels are a pain.  Mine finally wore off.

   Kell

1. 
   Jeff | Jun 06, 2003 12:13am | #4

   Anyone know the web site for them?

   Jeff

1. 
   forestgirl | Jun 06, 2003 01:24am | #5

   Try:  http://www.internationaltool.com/trugrip.htmforestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   Jeff | Jun 06, 2003 02:30am | #6

   Thanks FG, Knew I'd seen them before, just couldn't place them.

   Jeff

4. 
   RANGERP75R | Jun 06, 2003 04:08am | #7

   david

      I have the 36" and 50". They make something that attaches to a saw or router. I think most of us are referring to the straight bars with built-on clamps. They are fantastic. I'm getting more.

      I use them as guides for cutting larger 4' x 8' panel down to size. Very accurate. Also use them with routers for some free-hand operations. They can be used on work-benches if you have 90* degree corners as stops. I attach one to my TS when cutting very thin material to keep it from sliding under the fence. It is used as a fence in this situation and has no gap underneath.

   Try them, you'll like them... ha..

   sarge..jt

1. 
   tufenhundel | Jun 06, 2003 08:16am | #8

   I have a question for you all that have em:  Do you find them flexing as you push the tool against them as you cut? 

   I have the 50 incher.  I keep moderate pressure on the saw/router, but I find that it flexes, much more than a guide should.  I wind up bolstering the middle with something when I cut down 4x8 plys.

   Anyone?

1. 
   forestgirl | Jun 06, 2003 08:40am | #9

   That's why I like the looks of the Penn State system -- looks much more ridgid, 3/16ths thick on the aluminum angle, 1.5"x2" ell.  forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   Manchild | Jun 06, 2003 02:32pm | #10

   I guess I wasn't specific about which one. I'm getting the wider one that has a piece of hardboard attatched to the side that your saw or router rides on. It uses the same clamps I think. I want to use it as a fixture on a bench with a fence to crosscut sheet goods. We'll see if it works out.

2. 
   Kell | Jun 06, 2003 04:01pm | #12

   I found that it can flex if you push too hard against the clamp when used as a straight edge.  If you are pushing that hard, I question the method being used.  Is the tool being used tuned properly?  My experience is that whenever force is required to do something, there are alignment or tuning issues somewhere else.

   Just my 2 cents.

   Kell

3. 
   RoyinMD | Jun 06, 2003 08:03pm | #13

   I have never had flexing of the guide be a significant problem. The only time I can remember flexing it was using it as a guide for the biscuit cutter and it was more me than the guide. I think Kell's got the right approach, check/review your method(s): pressure (down and across) and maybe your stance and angle of approach. Heavy duty jobs you can always back it up with a board or second clamp.

   I'm planning on skill sawing a couple sheets of 4x8 3/4" tonight or tomorrow. I think I'll try a little abuse and see what happens. I'll post later with all ten fingers.

   Enjoy, Roy

1. 
   tufenhundel | Jun 07, 2003 05:02am | #17

    With my 50 incher clamped at full length, I can wiggle it ever so slightly with just my forefinger and thumb.  I mean, if I can detect it move like that, that's too much for me.

   I don't think I am overdoing it with the pressure.  Just surprised I am the only one it wiggles on...

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Jun 07, 2003 07:32am | #18

   TUFENHUNDEL

      I like Kell and Roy, have no problems with flex on mine. I use a PC circular with a sharp 60 tooth and score the line to eliminate splinter. No problem as I don't have to exert tremendous pressure against the guide to keep the saw on it. Just concentration and the sharp blade and saw do the hard work.

      Their is a model that has the guide to attach to saw or router, but I found I have no problems with accuracy at all with just the straight guides. I completed a 40' parts counter for my work recently where I had to cut lots of big sheets down and every cut was right on target. I didn't have a cut that was off more than .005 and I'm picky.

   Have a good evening...

   sarge..jt

2. 
   BG | Jun 07, 2003 12:34pm | #19

   Tufenhundel,

   No, I got a similar sense of insecurity (wiggle)when using the tru-grip for dados.  I usually added a couple of spring clamps or C-clamps just to be certain....never actually had a problem but did not want to be distracted by anything while routing...   

3. 
   Len | Jun 08, 2003 06:01pm | #21

   I bought the 100" guide from Lee and very happy with it. I also bought the traveller and made up a zero clearance sled for my PC framing saw.

   The traveller allows me to just push the saw/router along the guide and not exert any pressure against the guide. I also found that traveller fits nicely into the grove of my True Cut 50" clamp.

   Len

4. 
   MIKEBUETTNER | Jun 11, 2003 07:49pm | #27

   Not the TruGrip but it works great for me:

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00035.asp

   bit

5. 
   MarkinNY | Jun 11, 2003 06:24pm | #26

   I have the TruGrip 50" with the sled for routers/circular saws.  I have not figured out how to use the TruGrip to cut dead-on square without additional clamps.  I use it, however, for my purposes, it doesn't do what it is advertised to do, so I think it is overpriced.

5. 
   lostarrow | Jun 06, 2003 03:36pm | #11

   I also, have the 24",36" & 50" clamps and use them frequently. Sometimes I use the 24" as a fence on the bandsaw. The only advice I would give is to stick with the "True Grip" brand. The first one I bought , the 50" one, is a generic brand I got at my local Woodworkers wharehouse. The bar is stiff enough so that it doesn't flex but the clamp leaves something to be desired. It will clamp tight to the stock  but there is slack in the mechinism and the bar shucks back and forth 1/32" - 1/16", which I have to allow for when I set it up for a cut. I have no problems with the "True Grip's"

   Be not afraid of going slowly.  Be afraid only of standing still.   chinese proverb
6. 
   emerckx | Jun 06, 2003 09:05pm | #14

   There are two systems by that manufacturer.  There is the clamp and tool guide which I think others are describing and then there is the "Pro Foot'r" system.  I have both.  The "Pro Foot'r" systems come in three lengths which allow you to deal very nicly with sheet goods (rip or crosscut).  They have an integral channel/guide system and sleds that can be attached to hold a router or circular saw.  I have found them to be very precise with absolutely no flex (lateral).  I use them frequently on sheet goods.  The clamp and tool guides are also nice, but they do not have the channel/guide system and you must manually hold the tool against the straightedge.

   Mike

1. 
   RoyinMD | Jun 07, 2003 12:05am | #15

   Yeah, I want that 8' Pro Footer! and both plastic sleds.

   I checked one of the links above and couldn't believe the price on that camlock stop, $ 19 $29 $39 I forget, but its outrageous. Never will be a big seller, haven't they heard of a block of wood and a spring clamp.

   Enjoy, Roy

1. 
   forestgirl | Jun 07, 2003 01:42am | #16

   The camlock is $14.95, I've seen it in action and it looks pretty convenient.  Nothing that couldn't be supplanted by your block of wood though.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

7. 
   JMartinsky | Jun 07, 2003 07:17pm | #20

   I have used the "True Grip" 50" models for years. Exellent! For cross cutting doors, panels or plywood, they are unmatched. For for it! Good Luck !

   John

8. 
   MBL | Jun 09, 2003 09:23am | #23

   Dear David,

   They are good tools.

   Strange to read that other people don't like the stick-on-labels. I've had two for a few years. One is about 2 inches wide and the other is about maybe 5 inches wide and longer.

   On the first one, I initially ran a router on top of its flat surface and the label offset the cut so that the edge of the ruler was slightly ruined. But slightly is all it takes, so I hardly use it anymore. Have not been able to find a place so as to buy a replacement and have planned for a long time to fix it by gluing wood edges and make it wider. Wider, when I do it, will be better, because the other thing is, they use the same mechanism for clamping underneath for both widths.

   The clamping mechanism is 3" wide. That means that on some routing operations one can catch the clamp if you route on top of its 2" ruler, or if you hide the ruler on the opposite side, for example when using it to joint the edge of a board.

   The wider ruler (5" wide) is not flat wich is a shame, because it has a stepped crossection for structural rigidity.

   Even so, they are great tools. The 5" wide is a Pro-4 foot is the one I use the most.

   One use I have not seen advertised that I give to it is to rip boards ON THE TABLE SAW with an uneven edge and get one edge straight, for boards about 4 feet long max. It's real quick for that.

   An advise is to store them by hanging them from a nail on a wall, as if they lay around, and bump into other things, they can get nicked, as they are of precision aluminum.

   I don't get any wiggle or flexing at the lenghts of rulers I have.  The clamp lever has TWO clamp positions. The first one, where the lever is horizontal it clamps at one force. Pushing further down, the lever clamps at its max. Also, one must FIRST glide the free mover part to its fullest un-clamped-grip, then activate the clamp level.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 6/9/2003 2:35:01 AM ET by mbl