Replies

1. 
   Steinmetz | Feb 05, 2006 08:24pm | #1

   Maddog, Turn on the grinder Shut it off while it's coasting, apply a bit of chalk (don't press too hard)
   This will show the 'High spot'
   buy a good diamond wheel dresser
   It's just a metal rod that has a tapered point containing an industrial diamond (don't try to fool your 'Main Squeeze)it's NOT 'joolery'

   With the wheel spinning, apply the point a little below the center portion of the wheel and feed it across the face of the wheel lightly. If the high spot is partly erased, try again in the same way. A few more strokes should create a perfectly round face to the wheel. Most or any vigration will be gone.

   If,(However)there's annoying vibes, Try a new wheel. Some times a wheel is out of balance and MIGHT be corrected by repositioning on the shaft.
   OH, I forgot!... Some times the other wheel is out of balance, so true up both wheels first. If the vibration is still there, remove one wheel or the other to work on the balancing.that might help

   Before repositioning the wheel. mark a point on the shaft's end with a 'Witness' mark using a center punch.
   On the wheel, using a marking pen, mark a coresponding witness dot.
   ajacent to the punch mark.

   Call that mark 12 o clock. mark also at 6 o clock, 3 o clock, 9 etc etc. Try changing the position relitive to the punch mark.
   Some times this corrects the vibes, but a new wheel will tell if the shaft is bent. Good luck, Steinmetz.

   
   

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   Edited 2/5/2006 12:31 pm ET by Steinmetz

1. 
   maddog3 | Feb 05, 2006 08:34pm | #2

   all right will try that....I also noticed that the white wheel tends to get a grooved very quickly.....I assume it is a poor quality, ...any place to buy better wheels?

1. 
   highfigh | Feb 05, 2006 08:55pm | #3

   Is the wheel wobbling side-to-side or is it egg shaped? Lateral wobble isn't that bad unless it's excessive. If it's egg shaped, you may be able to dress it out, but if you bought the grinder locally, I would ask if you can get replacements. They don't put good wheels on them, just kind of a courtesy in their mind and a nuisance in the buyer's. Norton makes good wheels, but they aren't cheap. Another source of lateral wobble is the washers they put on the grinders. They aren't usually true and if you snug the nut so the wheel can't turn, turn it on briefly and see how bad it is. Once it's stopped, loosen the nut and turn only the wheel, keeping the nut/washers and shaft still. Snug it again and spin it. If the wobble diminishes to the point that satisfies you, stop the wheel and tighten the nut. Now mark the nut, outer washer, wheel, inner washer and shaft with something indelible. This allows you to align everything next time you take this wheel off and saves time. I would also flatten the washers on sandpaper before using the grinder to eliminate pressure points. I recently bought the Leonard Lee (Lee Valley) book on sharpening and there's a section on grinding wheels.As Steinmetz said, cool the piece with water and in addition, don't let it get hot enough to see a color change. If you do see this, the tool is toast and you'll need to replace it since it has just lost it's temper. It is now much too soft to do its intended job and stay sharp. This especially applies to thin blades and small diameter tools. For these, an extremely light touch is needed. "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

   Edited 2/5/2006 1:20 pm by highfigh

1. 
   maddog3 | Feb 05, 2006 09:29pm | #5

   this one has those tool-free thingamajigs...no nuts or washersI snuck up on the side with a pencil and the is hardly any wobble ....... also the tool rests are really crappy...I don't really do any Fine WW I just wanted the slower speed for those odd times ..maybe I'll get more interested in chisels and things later ,and get the LV tool restI know of Norton ..thank you for the reminder

1. 
   highfigh | Feb 06, 2006 02:17am | #7

   I don't know how much you paid for that one but Harbor Freight has a grinder with the right side at normal speed and the left is about 175 RPM with a water bath. It's specifically made for sharpening tools and is usually around $59 unless it's on sale.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

2. 
   maddog3 | Feb 06, 2006 04:45pm | #8

   175 RPM? ....this Delta was $99
   and its VS .........1725>3450 or something like that

   Edited 2/6/2006 9:10 am by maddog3

3. 
   maddog3 | Feb 06, 2006 05:18pm | #9

   here is mine....I didn't see the one at HF you mentioned....

   * 3 amp., 60 Hz., 1725-3450 RPM, single phase motor

   * Patent pending Tool-less quick change wheel changing system

   * All cast iron base minimizes operating vibration

   * Sharpening wheel allows you to sharpen a variety of materials

   * Quick change variable speed system on front

   * Variable speeds (1725-3450 rpm) for grinding, sharpening or buffing

   * Flexible gooseneck lamp for clear view of grinding wheels and workpiece

   * Also includes adjustment wrench and diamond wheel dresser

   * Uses 8" diameter by 1" thick wheels, 5/8" arbor

   * Includes: Grinder with patent pending quick change/tool-less wheel changing system, flexible lamp, cast iron tool rest, eye shields, spark deflectors, 36G & 80G.....mine is60G .....wheels, adjustment wrench, diamond wheel dresser and instruction manual

   
4. 
   highfigh | Feb 06, 2006 05:22pm | #10

   IIRC, it was about 10% of the motor rotation. Variable speed is good but you still need to be careful of overheating the steel/iron at 1750 RPM. And you still have, as you said, crappy tool rests. Why almost every grinder I have seen has such garbage for tool rests is beyond me. I would rather have a cheap grinder (which I do) with great rests (which I don't) than vise-versa. Or maybe someone could make replacements for what everyone really needs instead of bench mounting them. Someone like Lee Valley?Having a lamp on it is good, too. It sounds like a good setup, but while they are shipping it with a good motor, base and some other aspects, they're not addressing the things that really matter. It's not the motor that actually cuts or keeps the work steady, it just gets the wheels up to and maintains the speed. I think we need to start making phone calls and e-mailing the CS and technical departments of these companies when we buy their tools/machines and find that they have severe shortcomings."I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

   Edited 2/6/2006 9:30 am by highfigh

5. 
   maddog3 | Feb 06, 2006 07:37pm | #11

   Yesterday afternoon I used all the advice from here...I even left both wheels off ....started it and there was only slight vibration, which I chalk up to the bench its on.....BUT the stupid motor stopped in about 2 seconds when I shut it off......so now I think I have crappy bearings in a junky unit ! I will be calling Delta and asking them what they think...should be interesting. the grinder, while not too expensive should have SOMEquality to it.......

6. 
   highfigh | Feb 06, 2006 07:43pm | #12

   When the wheels are on it, does it click a couple of times while slowing down, then slow more rapidly? It may have a braking system on it. Also, when the wheels aren't on it, there's not much momentum to keep the whole thing spinning. There shouldn't really be any noticeable vibration without wheels on it.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

7. 
   maddog3 | Feb 06, 2006 09:22pm | #13

   it just coasts to a stop with the wheels on, no clicks, and
   I would expect a geardriven motor to stop quickly, but this is direct drive, it should spin a bit more than it does., that's why I think its binding...as far as the unloaded vibration........gonna bolt it to down and cross my fingers,againthis thing is more for utility than any sort of precision grinding or sharpening.......and that is not the point of course, I may want to learn howto sharpen chisels, or plane irons someday, so it would be nice if these little problems can be solved...I'll let you know....I'm heading out there again

8. 
   highfigh | Feb 06, 2006 10:59pm | #14

   You should be able to turn the wheels with no resistance to speak of. When I asked whether is slowed down in stages, it was because some motors are set up to activate a partial shunt across the field windings and this drastically reduces the ability of the motor to turn. They wouldn't make it stop instantly because the nut holding the wheel on could come loose from the wheel's momentum and the friction where they meet. What does it sound like when it runs? Anything out of the ordinary?
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

9. 
   maddog3 | Feb 07, 2006 06:37am | #15

   nah .....motor sounds normal, nothing unusual.....the wheels turn freely by hand, there is no lag when I turn it on, everything seems ok until it comes up to speed.
   .the toolless clamps are flat against the wheels too like the manual explains..I even picked it up while it was running and the vibration does not go away.....will try calling Delta again tomorrow ..

2. 
   Steinmetz | Feb 05, 2006 08:59pm | #4

   White wheels are designed to wear away to expose new sharp granules of abrasive. It stays cool and prevents 'Glazing.Try using a 'light touch'
   and traverse across the wheel's face from left to right and right to left to right and not stop moving
   This will keep the wheel from gouging.Keep a pot of water nearby to cool the workpiece and not loose it's temper (And yours too) Especially when sharpening chisels and plane irons. (Or anything that comes to a fine sharp point)Good luck, Stein Other wheels Glaze over and get really hot and get imbedded with metal particles A properly dressed wheel is a pleasure to use
   Only use the periphery (Face) of the wheel never use the side
   Keeps the wheel's corner's sharp.)If you like to sharpen drill bits, buy a 'Cup wheel'
   and use only the side ED.

   Edited 2/5/2006 1:10 pm ET by Steinmetz

1. 
   maddog3 | Feb 05, 2006 09:36pm | #6

   it just seemed like the White wheel was held together with elmers glue ....:>)

2. 
   bigfootnampa | Feb 07, 2006 04:41pm | #16

   Just a quick bit of advice here maddog; throw away the wheels that came with your grinder!!!!  They are INVARIABLY pure trash.  Buy some good wheels from Rockler or Woodcraft and your problem will likely dissappear.  In any case it is a total waste of your time to mess with the wheels that  came with your grinder.  In my experience this holds true for all brands of grinders except high end specialty units like the wetstone grinders.  Sadly the stones that are included with grinder units are so inferior that they are incapable of even giving a glimmer of the performance that the units are capable of... a real stumbling block for the trusting and inexperienced consumer.

1. 
   highfigh | Feb 07, 2006 05:55pm | #17

   FWIW, the Tormek setup at the local Woodcraft store has some deep grooves in it and, while I doubt it's because of bad wheel material, someone must have been on a mission to grind the crap out of something. Even with a good wheel, damage can occur if bad technique is used. The grooves have been there for at least a month, too.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

1. 
   maddog3 | Feb 07, 2006 07:19pm | #19

   well,
   I have tried flipping wheels, rotating them, alternating them,leaving them off..and the white one creates the most vibration.....dammit !.......... what a PITA for $99

1. 
   highfigh | Feb 07, 2006 07:31pm | #20

   Did you buy it locally? I would take it back, at least for exchange and try the new one before leaving. I tried 4 Oldham 40T blades before I got one that was flat, a couple of years ago. Obviously not in the same price range, but still a PITA. I don't think I have ever seen a grinder in a store with wheels that were true. Maybe one wheel, total. IIRC, yo usaid it vibrates even with no wheels on it. That tells me there's something either bent, shifted or just badly balanced. The chisel holder on my Delta morticing attachment broke a few years after I bought it and when I called Delta, the CS rep just asked for my address, so a replacement could be sent to me. It was here in a couple of days and cost me nothing. Maybe you could call them and see what they'll do for you. If they send you a replacement, get them to send a call tag with it, so you can put it on the original one and it won't cost you anything to ship it.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

1. 
   maddog3 | Feb 07, 2006 07:56pm | #21

   I tried calling Delta yesterday and got tired of waiting....will try again today.....I don't feel like dragging this back to .........Lowes....especially since I ain't going that way this week . ..I should probably call them as well...

   There is a small industrial supply store in town that may have 8" wheels,
   I am going to call him later on

2. 
   maddog3 | Feb 07, 2006 07:09pm | #18

   bigfootnampa,
   I am beginning to think of taking it back and ultimately going thru ALL of Lowes inventory..just to open ALL the boxes.....;>)I got better things to do though and now after trying everything, the problem seems to be with the sharpening wheel...the white one.....thanks for your thoughtsAside from my problem, if you are setting a font size on your computer, your posts areshowing up on the screen this small .............don't set any size and everything will be......normal......OK.........;)

   Edited 2/7/2006 11:20 am by maddog3

   Edited 2/7/2006 11:23 am by maddog3