Trying to avoid mistakes for Brand New Workshop
I have an opportunity to build a workshop dedicated to woodworking, which I do almost exclusively with hand tools. Location is Chicago IL. I wanted to post here and run some of my ideas by y’all, and those with more experience than I. I did build a Roubo Split top Workbench as my first project, but other than that have little experience; I’m just getting started.
“Garage” structure ( 16′ X 24′ ) will be built on a concrete pad to suit. I will create a subfloor over the concrete, then 1″ plywood sheets, painted.
If I ever sell, this structure must be convertible to a garage space. So I plan to rough in where the future garage door will go, etc.
I want shirt sleeve environment year round. I plan to go with radiant heat, can tap into gas line for that. In summer, I will need air conditioning.
On one end of the building I want a 4 foot wide storage space that runs across the width, 16′. In this space I will put a future bandsaw, my only power tool at this point. I can keep virtually all of my dust in this space, and out of the workshop proper. I will still need dust capture for this space.
Workshop proper will have double paned glass in the windows. Walls will have 2 X 6 studs for extra insulation. Wondering about skylights…
I can get creative with my lighting design. I may build raised panels etc for along each wall…
I know many of you have been there before me; would you recommend I do, or not do something….would love your feedback.
Replies
Build it tight, and insulate below the slab. Split-system A/C -heat pump units are a great solution for both heat and air and avoid the gas/fire issue.
Run enough power for the machines you will need just to fill all that empty space!
A 4-foot-wide space is a bit tight for a bandsaw IMHO. I am drooling over the prospect of a freesstanding shop! Good luck!
Thank you for your advice! I'm hand tools only, and do not expect to add a jointer, planer, table saw, etc. So I just need a place for my 8' bench and a glue up area. The bandsaw is the only powered tool I intend to buy, so I'm making it just wide enough for those times I'll need a bandsaw for rethicknessing wood. I'm doing all other dimensioning by hand.
How do I insulate below the pad? You mean above the pad right? Food for thought re heat and AC, thanks CS
I started hand tool only also, but after a few years had to add more power. Projects changed, kids came along and I had less time in the shop and used more plywood which I was definitely not cutting by hand. Fast forward 25 years and I'm back to all solid wood but for speed and to not abuse my body more I'm still using power.
My point is add outlets and even some 220 vac circuits. If you are investing in this building like you describe then I expect you will Ben there for awhile and eventually dimensioning every board by hand will become tedious.
Get a decent window on one wall. I'm in a basement and would give my left arm for a window. Decent lights, too. I've upgraded fluorescents to LED tubes and they are great but still have task lights.
Make sure you have a door large enough to get projects out. Double doors highly recommended.
Mike
It sounds like it will be a lovely workspace. Re wiring: I agree with Mikefm101 - get some outlets wired in. Although it sounds like you are planning to stay put a while, in the event that you did have to sell, a woodworking shed with ample sockets would be a better selling point than one that has to be rewired to accommodate machinery. Plus, you never know when you might decide that you're over dimensioning boards by hand and a planer/thicknesser might become the machine of your dreams.
A bit late for the original post, but.......some food for thought.
Just finished my dream, and what will be my last, shop. Lighting and power were critical to me.
Costco has 4000 lumen 4' LED lights that are ideal. They can be wired in series up to 4 units. I installed 3 rows of 4 units in a 21 x 28 space. It's like being outdoors -- 48,000 lumens.
I put outlets 40" above the floor spaced every 4 feet. Used a 20 amp circuit for each wall. Added a 220 circuit for the compressor.
This time I was lucky enough to have the plumbing for the basement sewer pump on the opposite side of a wall, so, for about $100 I have a utility sink, incredibly useful.
To the OP, you have another 3 feet in width than I do. I'm still able to get my cars inside but I can't just cruise into the garage; I have indexes I look at (depending on which car I'm parking) and stop leaving enough room for my stuff.
I love my hand tools, but even as a hobbyist I have pretty much the full spectrum of power tools. I tend to lose interest in a project if it takes months on end to build, and I lack the skill to resaw wood by hand. I love my bandsaw so you're on the right track there, and can make nice veneers as well with it.
If you want to turn anything, a foot-powered lathe is possible but an electric one beats the pants off it. That said, I'm in my 60s now and you may be in your 20s. I may have found it more satisfying then than I would now.
Best of luck to you and enjoy your new work space!
I live in Northwest Connecticut, in a house with radiant heat in the floors. I find that during the colder months when the heat is on all the time the house gets very dry and I have to add moisture. Based on my experience, I would plan for some type of humidification.
Sounds like you are thinking of some the big correct things. Some general thoughts:
1. What kind of woodworking do you want to do?
2. Outside of physical comfort (big on my list as well), what kind of visual look do you want? The good news is that there are lots of articles on various shops. I'd search the internet and look at FWW Shop and Tool issues for inspiration.
3. Do you want/need space to longue/hang out in the shop? In other words, if you aren't woodworking, would you want to watch a sporting event in the shop.
4. Do you have any safety consdierations such as keeping little ones from being able to turn on the tools? Electricians could install master kill switches, etc.
5. Will you want to have a space set up so that a child or spouse from time to time can work in the shop as well? I can fit a couple of card tables so my wife can do art hobbies in there from time to time and my daughter can play with some toys.
Congrats. Designing a shop is a fun problem to have.
Natural light is great, get as much as you can, but in our shop we have south-facing windows which at your latitude (and mine) cause me a lot of difficulty from about Nov-Feb because I find myself staring right into the sun when working at the bench. Might not be a problem for you depending on how you plan to set things up, just something to be aware of. I need to rig some better shades and/or move my bench, though the arrangement of electrical outlets and power tools makes that tricky in my case. I wish there were more 220 outlets, more widely spaced, what I have now restricts my layout. Even if you're not planning on power tools, throw in a lot of outlets, it's nice to have one nearby at all times, even if it's just for a light or something.
The floor you're planning sounds great, wish I had something like that. The concrete was murder on my body till I got some padding on it. Good luck!
Put the outlets higher than 48" so a sheet of plywood won't cover them. I also put two duplex in each box but on separate 20 amp breakers. If I ever do overload a circuit all I need to do is move the plug to the other outlet.
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I have put in a sub-floor with 2 x 4 sleepers and painted plywood sheets on top. I'm very happy with that. A single mini-split heat pump is great, but with little insulation on the walls, I need to supplement the heat in the winter. So, I'd recommend adequate insulation. I'd put in a dedicated sharpening station with good natural lighting and a sink if possible. A sink was not on my budget, and it is missed. Try to keep the area around your workbench clutter free. Storage under the bench is problematic because saw dust and shavings could create a big mess. With adequate space, you could put storage elsewhere. Planning storage is complicated. You'll think of tools of course, but don't forget jigs, holdfasts, bench dogs, etc. Each active project deserves an area as well. Wood scraps seem to defeat all attempts at neatness.
Lots of good advice above. Re: Windows/Skylights - I also built a shop from scratch and love it. I wanted both lots of windows and skylights. These have proven to be both blessing and curse. With the multitude of windows I can watch the neighbor's alpacas and goats in the snowy woods but ended up with insufficient wall space for convenient tool storage. I thought skylights would be helpful for enhanced lighting but have not provided much advantage. True, it's brighter in the shop during the day but the light from the south-facing skylights is harsh, directional and uneven.
Best of luck with your shop! Enjoy.
As you start doing more woodworking, you will quickly come to realize how much time it takes to dimension every board by hand, and that you are spending months milling pieces before you can actually start each project.
Put in the power receptacles now.
I turned my attached 18' x 23' garage into a woodworking shop over the last year. If you plan to pursue this hobby I'd suggest you plan now for stationary power tools to make their way into your shop. Someone above recommended a subpanel. I second that. Since your shop will be detached I'd think that's the only way to go. It will meet your electrical needs and give you room to expand. I went from 1 light bulb and 2 outlets to approximately 20 110v outlets and 3 220 outlets. Also 6 4' LED lights. I put three 110s outlets in the ceiling too for pull down electrical reels and an air cleaner. BTW, I put 3/4" plwood between the ceiling joists in the areas where I plan to put those as well as an air hose reel. Still haven't put them in but with the plywood in place I wont have to fish for joists when I'm ready. I plan to put my pancake compressor on a high corner shelf just to get it out of the way. To that end, I added a switched 110v outlet high on the wall to run it. As for heating/cooling I went with a Mitsubishi mini split. We are in San Antonio (Africa hot!) and it keeps the space very comfortable in summer. Winters are not issue here. I'm not sure how well those heat in colder climates like yours. If you go that route be sure to check for rebates. I got $750 back from our power company on a $2900 system. Good luck!
So I'm just putting the final touches on a shop I had built in central MO two years ago. The shop was close to 5 years in the planning stages and I was able to glean a great deal of info from the now defunct Wood Magazine forum. I've attached the notes I kept from that forum for you to review. Couple key tidbits I did land on.....
- Under the slab, insulate and run 6" plastic pipe to key spots for dust collection. Also run electric to spots where you will have tools setup in the middle of the shop area. I hate stumbling over cords.
- Insulate very well.
- Once the structure is up, walk thru your outlet and wiring needs with your builder. Put in more outlets than you think you will need. Also, account for items you want on switches. For example, my air compressor and dust collector are in a separate room, but I have a wall switch in the shop to turn each of them on.
- Consider the direction your shop will face when planning for windows.
- Be sure you have a large enough door to accommodate bringing in supplies and taking out larger finished projects.
- Depending on your location, carefully consider your heating and cooling options. For example, I don't have access to natural gas and propane can be expensive. I opted for two LG mini-splits that I bought online and had a local HVAC guy install. These things are great for both heating and cooling.
- Many folks recommended in-floor radiant heat, but if the fish or bitting or it's warm enough to swing a golf club, I may not be in my shop. So I wanted a way to not heat or cool the space to a comfortable temp unless I was going to be there. Many stated the in-floor needed time to get up to temp and once there it was better to leave it on all the time. Lots of factors on this one, but I'm extremely happy with my choice.
- Put in a bathroom if you can. I have a stool, sink and shower and really enjoy the convenience.
Hopefully these attachments work and include a photo of my shop (the open door is where the fishing boat goes). Happy to answer any question if needed.
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If you have not pored the concrete floor, I would recommend red foam board insulation for under the slab. This will form a moisture barrier to prevent ground moisture from wicking into the slab and will help with humidity control. I put 2 inch foam under the slab which will also allow the concrete to hold the heat and radiate it back into the shop. Great if I decide to spend money for the radiant heat system.
About ten years ago I built a freestanding sewing studio for my wife and daughter. I suggest photographing the walls BEFORE the drywall goes up, so if you ever need to change something you will know exactly where everything is.
Don't over-think it, you'll have to live with your decisions down the road.
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