Replies

1. 
   lat_axe | Jan 18, 2021 04:39am | #1

   A bench top will get heavy use much greater than will the average table top, even that of a kitchen table. It's the nature of our work to introduce the workbench to the "muck & bullets" of making things with sharp edges, sandpaper and glue. Whilst keeping it neat, clean(ish) and flat helps the work, how the work surface looks - even the colour - is not that important really.

   I doubt, anyway, if you can keep the maple "white". Mine too is maple and despite regular cleaning-off and occasional re-flattening with a fine set plane, it yellows (in between the other splotches of colours due to the various tasks performed upon it).

   Mine was originally finished in Liberon Finishing Oil (my usual oil finish for everything, in those long ago days) which I believe is mostly tung oil but with driers and a few resins to toughen it up a bit. Oils, by the way, are a film finish like any other. Don't believe the advertising blurb about them "penetrating" the wood. They don't, as you'll see when you come to re-flatten your bench in time, as those slight undulations and dips appear with moisture changes.

   It went yellow anyway, mine. After a clean or re-flatten I now just give it a rub of clear paste wax, which keeps it smooth for a bit so work pieces on it don't catch, snag or scratch on anything. But it's a work bench so looks like it, not like a piece of furniture with the smooth gleam of pretty patination. Yours will likely look the same in a few months, no matter what you finish it with.

   **********
   I'm always a bit suspicious of those magazine photos of super-neat & tidy workshops with glistening shiny bench tops. Do they have a captive fairy to make them like new every night after the mucky woodworker has gone to bed? :-)

   Lataxe

2. 
   john_c2 | Jan 18, 2021 05:05am | #2

   As Lataxe says, maple will change color over time. Every wood does. Heck, people too. It's life.

3. 
   _mj_ | Jan 18, 2021 07:22am | #3

   I used the Watco danish oil on mine figuring it would protect a bit against spills and was an easy thing to refresh. As it turns out spills happen anyway and I have not done a "refresh" in the 20+ years since I made the top.

1. 
   john_c2 | Jan 18, 2021 07:47am | #4

   We all start out with the best of intentions, don't we?

4. 
   elmaduro | Jan 18, 2021 09:52am | #5

   I've broken in a new bench recently. Decided on a whim to finish it with Tried and True varnish oil (decided to empty a depleting can). I'm happy with the finish, it's natural, and the odor is pleasing. Will I ever getting around to 'refreshing it' -- prolly not..

5. 
   _mj_ | Jan 18, 2021 10:43am | #6

   I don't know about best intentions...more like uninformed expectations. I remember thinking at the time that with all of the effort I put into building it I would want to keep it looking sharp. Over time the bulb went on that time lost keeping it looking nice was better spent adding to the patina of the bench by using it. There are spots where it has gotten dinged or accidently sanded where I "refreshed" the finish when I happened to have a soaked rag in hand... right over the dirt and scratches.

6. 
   sclause | Jan 18, 2021 12:05pm | #7

   I am following here because I am almost finished with a Moravian workbench and trying to figure out what finish to use. I don't want to make it slick but do want to make the color pop a little. Was thinking BLO or Danish oil but can't seem to decide. Not really trying to protect but hoping to give myself some time to wipe up a spill or glue drop assuming the oil has already penetrated the wood.

7. 
   _mj_ | Jan 18, 2021 01:08pm | #8

   The danish oil pretty much does exactly that... at least it did for me.

1. 
   user-6822566 | Jan 18, 2021 07:02pm | #10

   BLO from the home center is not true BLO and contains toxic VOCs. Wear a 3M half face mask with N100 vapor filters.

2. 
   user-6822566 | Jan 18, 2021 07:03pm | #11

   Danish oil is linseed oil, sometimes with toxic VOCs.

1. 
   john_c2 | Jan 18, 2021 07:43pm | #14

   It's not made from sqeezed Danes? (Squeezed? Squozen?)

8. 
   user-6822566 | Jan 18, 2021 06:58pm | #9

   Real Milk Paint Co. has a line of pure tung oil, a dark and a half and half variants, hemp oil and non-VOC citrus solvent. I've found them all to be excellent, fairly priced products. You can order them fast if you're an Amazon Prime subscriber. Check the products out at: https://www.realmilkpaint.com/category/oils/?gclid=CjwKCAiAgJWABhArEiwAmNVTB1qpGQpclTC3a8K_KECcggp6HcyTUBq03rqTCZfged4vGkeYsYmAZBoCErwQAvD_BwE

9. 
   user-6822566 | Jan 18, 2021 07:04pm | #12

   BLO from the home center is not true BLO and contains toxic VOCs. Wear a 3M half face mask with N100 vapor filters.

10. 
    Beasley7 | Jan 18, 2021 07:32pm | #13

    I second the comments about The Real Milk Paint Company. I use their pure Tung Oil and Citrus Solvent because I live in the worlds largest and most biologically diverse natural estuary and I am keenly aware that everything I use in my shop ends up in the bay. And their products are awesome.

    That said, have you considered Osmo as a finish? Also natural and I find nothing wants to stick to it. It was developed for finishing floors, so it tough. It's expensive, but a little goes a very long way.

1. 
   user-6822566 | Jan 18, 2021 08:38pm | #16

   Osmo makes great products. Pricy.

11. 
    stantheman | Jan 18, 2021 08:09pm | #15

    Danish oil is a mixture of oil AND varnish. Good stuff, but you need to know what it is and isn't.

12. 
    user-6822566 | Jan 18, 2021 08:40pm | #17

    Osmo makes great products. Pricy.