Replies

1. 
   Scarecrow | Oct 24, 2005 06:51pm | #1

   currently I'm trying that formula out now.  I'm using a 1/3rd of each mix.  I'll let ya know how it turns out.

    

    

2. 
   DonC | Oct 24, 2005 06:56pm | #2

   One of my club members has a piece of furniture published on the back cover of fineWoodworking magazine. It is a Federal piece. The finish he uses on ALL of his projects is 4 hour Minwax wipe-on poly. His talent is incredible just like his finish.

1. 
   kenney66 | Oct 24, 2005 09:07pm | #5

   does he use just the miniwax wipe on poly?  or does he include the other ingredients?

   Kenney66

   Go White SOX

    

    

3. 
   SRVela | Oct 24, 2005 06:59pm | #3

   David's website says he uses Seal-A-Cell and Arm-R-Seal from General Finishes.  Try this link:

   http://djmarks.com/stories/faq/What_is_the_mix_ratio_for_the_Linseed_Oil_Tung_Oil_and_Urethane_46687.asp

4. 
   ned7 | Oct 24, 2005 07:00pm | #4

   If you go to his web site at http://www.djmarks.com/stories/faq/What_is_the_mix_ratio_for_the_Linseed_Oil_Tung_Oil_and_Urethane_46687.asp you can see what he uses. This link is from his FAQ.

5. 
   Cheatah | Oct 24, 2005 10:00pm | #6

   Ken--

   I have used the BLO-Tung oil-Poly mix on several projects. I have also experimented with different ratios. In my opinion, the more Poly, the more of film build you get. I have found that I prefer the following mixture:

   50% - Tung Oil'

   30% - Boiled Linseed Oil

   20% - Poly

   This mix gives descent protection and still lets the grain pop without a lot of film build up. I would suggest you simply experiment on your own to get a mix that YOU like. I am sure there are many others that prefer a different mix and/or different ratio content.

   Good luck--

    

   Thank you,

   Cheatah

6. 
   BArnold | Oct 24, 2005 10:05pm | #7

   Kenney,

   Others gave you the link to David's website for the information on the products he uses, so I won't go into that.  Others use what works for them, like the mention of wipe-on poly.

   Since I'm cheap, I mix my own rather than pay someone elso to do it.  Wipe-on poly is just a thinned version of regular poly.  I've made my own wipe-on by mixing poly/naphtha 1/1 and it works fine.  Same is true for 'Danish oil' mixtures or any other combinations.

   For instance, when finishing cherry I've settled on a process of starting with BLO/naphtha in a 1/1 ratio for the first rubdown.  Subsequent applications will be Poly/BLO/Naphtha in a 1/1/1 ratio.  I'll experiment with the ratio depending on the wood I'm using and the look I want.

   BLO is cheaper than tung oil by a long shot, so it can save you a lot.  However, if you want less ambering of the finish, tung is the way to go.  In most cases, a little amber color warms the wood and is desirable; sometimes you may want as clear a finish as possible so you might have to try somthing less yellow like a soya-based oil product.

   The bottom line is to listen to what others are doing and why, but don't hang your hat on your results being exactly the same as another's.

   Regards,

   Bill Arnold - Custom Woodcrafting
   Mensa Member
   Click Here if you're interested in a good, inexpensive website host.

   ---

   Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.

   ---

1. 
   Grits | Oct 25, 2005 06:36am | #8

   I anyone is interested, I will post some images of gunstocks finished with various materials,  BLO, epoxy, polyurethane, Waterlox, etc.  All are on working guns and some are quite old, eighty and up.

   Only one question, how do you post an image?

   Grits

1. 
   BArnold | Oct 25, 2005 03:18pm | #9

   Grits,

   When you post a message, there is a block below the edit window that says "Attach Files".  Click it and follow the instructions.  Depending on your browser, you might have to enable pop-ups for taunton.com.

   Be sure the files you post are less than 100KB each, preferably 60KB or less.  Posting large files ensures that folks on dial-up access will NOT look at your photos.  Most of the images I post end up being 30KB to 50KB, although they may have been 300KB or more initially.

   Let me know if you need further assistance.

   Regards,

   Bill Arnold - Custom WoodcraftingMensa Member Click Here if you're interested in a good, inexpensive website host.

   Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.

7. 
   MrWilson | Oct 25, 2005 05:29pm | #10

   If you want a Tung Oil, Linseed Oil, Poly mix buy Sam Maloof's finish (http://www.rockler.com search for Maloof).

   General Finishes (David Marks finish) Seal-a-Cell & Arm-r-Seal are NOT this combination. The Seal-a-Cell has poly and some linseed oil in it and is used to seal and pop the grain. The Arm-r-Seal is just Poly and goes on over the sealer.

1. 
   jerrymayfield | Oct 25, 2005 06:57pm | #11

   As someone said the tung oil,linseed oil urethane finish that David Marks uses does not contain any tung oil, Read the msds of all General finishes None of them contain any tung oil.Regards
   Jerry