Replies

1. 
   GlennS | Nov 24, 1999 06:00pm | #1

   *
   David, I use a mix of equal portions of tung/poly/spirits. Apply it the same way as oil. Wipe or brush on, let sit 10 minutes, wipe of excess. Do multiple coats to build the finish. The first last coat I rub with 600 grit sandpaper while still wet and this creates a "slurry" that will partially fill open pore woods. I rub the last coat while wet as well and this produces a very smooth finish.
   As far as durability, I used this on a red oak bathroom vanity and medicine cabinet 4 years ago and it is still in great shape. I've used it on several projects but the bathroom cabinets endure the most abuse. You obviously do not use a water based urethane but any other is o.k. I use a satin as I do not like the real high gloss but that's just personal preference.

1. 
   David_Tschirley | Nov 25, 1999 08:38am | #2

   *Glenn, I'm still learning to use this web page, so you may have already received this reply, but at any rate, thanks for your detailed response - I think I'll try this.

1. 
   Howard_Acheson | Nov 25, 1999 09:16pm | #3

   *Keep in mind that most "Tung Oil" finishes contain little or no pure tung oil. Look for products that contain the words "pure" or "100%" if you want real tung oil. Most "tung oil finishes" are mixtures of varnish, linseed oil and mineral spirits. You can easily make a very similar product by mixing the above in about equal proportions. If you want more protection add a higher percentage of varnish. In any event, the finish will be fairly soft and will require periodic refinishing.BTW, adding an oil to a "tung oil finish" just makes the finish softer. You should only add thinner to pure tung oil, not "tung oil finishes".

1. 
   johnny_ | Mar 27, 2000 05:35am | #4

   *I'm building a quarter sawn white oak entry and the client has chosen polyurethane (Minwax Spar Helmsman Satin)for the finish, which I've used quite a bit before. I have always been amazed and sometimes even dismayed at how much this finish yellows over time. I made a walnut door that faces south (western mid Michigan) about ten years ago that's so yellow now it looks like butternut. I'm not comfortable using a water based exterior finish because I haven't seen any long term finished pieces to determine how well it holds up in the sun and weather, though I like the color of the initially applied finish. I was wondering if anyone has any thoughts or useful suggestions for me. Thanks

1. 
   Howard_Acheson | Mar 28, 2000 12:01am | #5

   *Spar varnishes contain UV inhibitors and these make spar varnishes more yellow than other varnishes. They also contain a higher percentage of oil which again adds to the yellow. In addition, all wood darken due to the UV in sunlight. Over time, there is little you can do about it. No finish that gets outdoor exposure will last forever. Wish there was--us boaters would line up.

2. 
   Don_Stephan | Mar 30, 2000 04:09am | #6

   *Hydrocote makes a product called Polyshield which they suggest is appropriate for exterior use. Might check with them at http://www.hydrocote.com. I've used it for countertops but no experience on its long term water resistance.

3. 
   Mike_Taylor2 | Apr 09, 2000 07:37am | #7

   *Defthane will not yellow with age and it has UV blockers. Great for exterior doors. It is the only poly i use. I highly prefer it over minwax.

4. 
   Howard_Acheson | Apr 13, 2000 10:46pm | #8

   *I would be very surprised if Defthane or any other polyurethane vanish did not yellow with age in the presence of sunlight. I know when I used some Defthane in the past, it had a yellow tint to it upon application. Even their spec sheet states this.

5. 
   David_O | Apr 18, 2000 01:02am | #9

   *Glenn,I am fiishing a coffe table made of Mahoghany and Padauk. I'mfairly new at furniture making and I'm trying some differentfinishing techniques. I started with 100% tung and turpentine50/50. Two coats of this, then one coat of just the 100% tung.At this point I decided that waxing to protect would not workfor two reasons. Not enough protection and with the open grainI didn't want the wax to show after it dried well. So I thoughtthat I would continue with Hardrock varnish, Tung, Mineral Spirits33/33/33 mix. Well, I thought all was well until I scratched the surface with 320 grit to tooth the table for another coat of the varnish mixture. After I waited 15-20 minutes I wiped the surface only to find the scratches from the sanding, which tells me that ALL of the oil mix came back off. Do you have any suggestions on what I'm doing wrong and how I can correct this mid-project shift in finishing technique?