Replies

1. 
   mousejockey | Feb 18, 2008 11:42pm | #1

   I found an explanation on the Grizzley site so I'll try that.

   Thanks

   mousejockey

   Over the Hill? What Hill? I didn't see any Hill!
2. 
   RickL | Feb 18, 2008 11:48pm | #2

   You sure the cutters are even with the outfeed table? If the tables are off you will need a  minumum 4' machined straight edge  and feeler gauge to check the tables for co-planar. Beware the adjustment cams have double set screws. You have to completely remove the top set screw to loosen the locking set screw. I usd to work as a tech for a dealer and serviced many a parallelogram jointer. It's a pretty logical progression to do this. Make sure the outfeed table is even with the head then line up the infeed table with the outfeed table. You can tell from the camposition where you have more or less adjustment. A simple pin punch is all you need to move the bronze cams.

   There is something on the Delta site on the adjustment.

   http://home.usmo.com/~rfwoodworking/jointer.html

   http://home.earthlink.net/~mgoodall/happywoodworking/DJ20adjustments.html

   http://media.ptg-online.com/media/dm/Articles/FAQs/JointerTableAdjustmentProcedureforJointerswithParrallelogramTables/20040123145450_J05.pdf

    

   
   

   ---

   Edited 2/18/2008 3:53 pm ET by RickL

1. 
   mousejockey | Feb 19, 2008 03:35am | #3

   Thanks, I knew someone here would point me in the right direction, I just ordered the 50" aluminum straight edge from Lee Valley.

   mousejockeyOver the Hill? What Hill? I didn't see any Hill!

3. 
   flairwoodworks | Feb 19, 2008 04:59am | #4

   You know about the eccentric bushings, right?

   Chris @ flairwoodworks

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   mousejockey | Feb 19, 2008 06:47pm | #5

   They are shown in the documentation, I should be able figure out the set up after a few tries.

   mousejockeyOver the Hill? What Hill? I didn't see any Hill!

4. 
   RonK | Feb 19, 2008 08:29pm | #6

   I have a set of instruction from Delta (5 Pages) on how to do the adjustment. If you need them I can scan them convert to a pdf and e-mail them to you.

5. 
   JohnWW | Feb 20, 2008 12:14am | #7

   Whoa, slow down. 99% of the time the only reason for not getting a straight edge off of a jointer is the outfeed table isn't set to the proper height.

   In a nutshell, set the outfeed table a bit lower than the head and then slowly raise the table a bit at a time until two boards planed on the machine come together properly. If your machine has a lever control on the outfeed table use the two limit screws on the machine's back side to raise the table by small increments. If the blades are getting dull change them out first.

   If you absolutely know that the tables are out of parallel, there is a technical bulletin on the Delta web site that will take you through the adjustment process.

   John White

1. 
   RonK | Feb 20, 2008 02:08am | #8

   I got the instructions from delta some time ago. When the question was posted I went looking for the bulletin to show the link and on the new site I can't find it. Probably me but could you point out the link so I can see where they have moved to?

2. 
   mousejockey | Feb 20, 2008 03:48am | #9

   JohnWW you may have saved me a ton of effort, thanks for the info, I tried playing with it and all seems good now. I bought it used then had the blades sharpened so I assumed that with the move it got whacked but maybe it was just the new blade placement after all.

   Thanks a bunch.

   mousejockeyOver the Hill? What Hill? I didn't see any Hill!

1. 
   RickL | Feb 20, 2008 04:54pm | #11

   I sent you all the  you needed in the 3rd post. I even told you to check the blades first because 99.9% of the time that's all it is.

   The first thing you should have looked at was the trouble shooting guide...

   http://home.usmo.com/~rfwoodworking/jointer.html

   The other links showed how to adjust the tables if they were off.

   Edited 2/20/2008 8:58 am ET by RickL

1. 
   mousejockey | Feb 20, 2008 07:54pm | #12

   I did say that all was good now but really meant good enough for now. The touble shooting guide requires a long accurate straightedge. Until I recieve it I can't really attempt it. But the second type problem is what I was seeing, indicating that the outfeed table is not parallel. Believe me when I recieve the straightedge I'll be  starting from square one, I also just bought a dial indicator and base so I can check the blades more accurately. It may be overkill but I relly like going to a tool and knowing it's accurate. Thanks again for all of the info.

   mousejockeyOver the Hill? What Hill? I didn't see any Hill!

1. 
   RickL | Feb 20, 2008 08:36pm | #13

   http://home.usmo.com/~rfwoodworking/jointer.html

   The trouble shooting guide does not require a straight edge to diagnose all problems. The last item, which should be first, describes your problem with the simple solution of adjusting the outfeed table or loering the knives  if you have a fixed outfeed talbe. The chart could be set up in a better sequence of events to help  one to trouble shoot problems. It is kind of backwards with the last procedure being the first thing to check.  I should have pointed that fact out. My apology. I've been working on machines professionally for 25 years and can adjust a machine faster than I can describe how to adjust it. Unfortunately the perfect jointer ajustment book hasn't been written yet.

   One should look at the chart from the bottom up as far as procedure. The person who did is well intentioned but doesn't quite understand the logical procedure to trouble shoot a jointer. They did do a good job overall I must say.

6. 
   TonyCz | Feb 20, 2008 08:57am | #10

   I just found the one I posted to last year about the DJ-20 fix it is on jointer concavity problem. Problem solved. 

   ---

   Edited 2/20/2008 12:58 am ET by TonyCz

   
   

   ---

   Edited 2/20/2008 12:59 am ET by TonyCz