Replies

1. 
   tcaley | Jun 16, 2003 04:47pm | #1

   Check out this article on WoodCentral.

   http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/plane_tune.shtml

2. 
   BG | Jun 16, 2003 04:51pm | #2

   Eric,

   Watch the clip on this web sight for tuning a block plane....that will give you the basics for doing all the planes...

3. 
   KevinLBS | Jun 16, 2003 07:34pm | #3

   Eric-

   Try this one as well. Very explicit and thorough for plane beginners like you and me. Check it out at:

   http://www.yesterdaystools.com/tuninga1.htm

   Kevin

4. 
   bill_1010 | Jun 17, 2003 03:26pm | #4

   Pick up garrett Hack's handplane book or there is another book about chosing and restoring hand planes.   both are pretty good references. 

   elbow grease is youre best bet.  Its not easy work, but it can be enjoyable.  If you find you dread restoring the plane, look up planewood aka mike he restores planes.  He can be found here on knots but i havent seen him post in a while.

   you can flatten the sole of the plane with a 2ft sq piece of MDF. some silicon carbide grit (90 grit) and some solvent based thinner.    Find the carbide grit, i think lee valley or garrett wade sells the grit in powder form.   Coat the surface of the MDF with a very light coat of solvent (paint thinner or naptha or kerosene) then sprinkle some grit on the MDF and place the plane on the MDF.  (your plane needs to have the blade installed but no depth set on the blade) then work the sole in a figure eight motion.  Youll need to add some solvent and more grit as the previous stuff wears.

   When you think youve gotten it all flat color the sole with magic marker and then work the plane back on the grit.   If its flat all the coloring will be gone and if its not the coloring will show the recessed areas that need more work.

   As far as the irons (blades) youre best bet if you want to use them is to order a Hock blade for your plane.   They are thicker then the stock blades.  

   YOull probably need to tune up your cap to the iron.  The cap needs to fit really tight to the iron, no gaps or spaces. 

   The books i mentioned above are really a must have for plane users.  The hack book is pretty much standard text book for planes. Its the first book usually mentioned by anyone here in reference to planes of any kind.

5. 
   Steinmetz | Jun 18, 2003 04:21am | #5

   Eric, If you buy a 6" wire wheel with an arbor to fit your 3,8" variable speed (And reversing)drill, You'll get that rust off pronto,

   Do the sides first and the soles last. Don't be too agressive when the wheel is first used,so you don't score the cast iron.

   After a few minutes the whiskers get 'run in,'so you can increase the pressure. Take the whole plane apart but don't desturb the 'frog'

   All the other metal parts are steel and brass they can be wire brushed as well. If you can't remove some parts,Use a small 4" brass wire wheel (Don't buy the cheapos as they are brass plated.)

   The sole should be leveled after removing the rust. If you have a disc sander, and silicon carbide 'stick on' discs, you can level the sole in less time than honing  it by hand.( I'm assuming you plan to use those family jewels)

   Thesole's corrogations, should be de-rusted first with the wire wheel in a front to back motion using the edge whiskirs to reach into the fluteds

   Then, hone the whole bottom on the 'sil-carb' 'till it's level' '       

     If you're really a 'purist', do as I do:. Buy a 6" Scotchbrite wheel for your drill or bench grinder and polish them sucka's.

   Lastly, sharpen and hone the 'iron on a good oilstone then 'strop' the edge (at the barger shop)  I just use my leather belt.              stein.

   By the way Eric(and you eves droppers) When the wire wheel gets dull Run it in reverse against an old oilstone or grinding wheel held in your hand. Then when you run it forward, it's like new again,                    stein.

   Holy $%$#,will you look at all those indians? Quote by George C Custer