Replies

1. 
   Eef | Apr 30, 2010 04:17pm | #1

   hey quick,

   another way of saying this is that your tenon needs to be perfectly centered-right?  if you get your turning blank very accurately centered in the head and tailstock, all should be well. as far as to correct sizing, i use calipers, set to the dimension i am after and lay them on the work as i turn.  when the caliper drops past the tenon, it's sized.  there  may be a better way to do all of this so stick around and we'll see who responds.

   eef

2. 
   user-64052 | Apr 30, 2010 04:29pm | #2

   this is difficult as one does not know really how you are having a problem, what is affecting it. if you have the piece running between centres and you centres detemining the axis of the block of wood; whatever that you get on one side should be equal to what is on the other side. Is your prolem that you cannot turn a straight line and that the tenon tapers.

   if you can diagnose what is wrong perhaps we can help  you

   ron

3. 
   flairwoodworks | Apr 30, 2010 09:47pm | #3

   The right tool

   I find it very hard to tun a flat tenon with a gouge.  A skew might be easier, but I would go for a parting tool or square scraper.

4. 
   forestgirl | May 01, 2010 12:09am | #4

   Not understanding....

   Count me among those who aren't quite sure what the problem is.  Another description, or a picture??

5. 
   roc | May 01, 2010 12:48am | #5

   Every wood worker needs a metal turning lathe

    Seems like every other post of late I been singing the praises of my metal lathe so here goes again.  Just imagine the metal dowel is a wood component.

   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kIPQKTrHkc

   There are these things to.  I have no experience with them

   http://www.veritastools.com/products/Page.aspx?p=155

6. 
   Quickstep | May 01, 2010 10:27am | #6

   Here's an attempt at a drawing. The top three drawings show the results I'm getting, exaggerated for clarity. Either the tenon ends up tapered in one direction or another or "lumpy" along its length. The tenon is 1-1/4" long. I'm using a skew to turn it to its final dimension.

   
1. 
   RalphBarker | May 01, 2010 10:45am | #7

   tool sequence

   Assuming round stock, I'd start with a parting tool near the shoulder of the tenon, using calipers to establish the desired diameter. One or two additional "guide" cuts with the parting tool/caliper combo along the length of the tenon will help establish the depth of further turning. I'd then use a gouge to "rough" the cut down to near the depth of the guide cuts, and then the skew to finish it off.

   As noted earlier, the tools need to be guided or restrained against the tool rest with the index finger of one hand, simulating the precision of the guide gears/screws on a metal lathe. Sharp tools and a light touch obviously help.

   Depending on the shape of the rest of the leg, different techniques may be needed to establish the precise location of the shoulder of the tenon. With the shoulder location marked, for example, you might use a back saw to cut across the corner of the shoulder with the lathe turned off to eliminate chipping at the corner.

2. 
   user-64052 | May 01, 2010 01:09pm | #8

   if you are new to this. make sure that your tool rest is perpendicular to the axis of the piece of material. easiest way is to visually line the edge of the tool rest to the inside edge of the ways of the lathe(inside edge of the gap. use the  flat of the skew on the tool rest, cutting edge of the skew parallel to the axis. thumb on the top and forefinger under the skew. thumb holds it down and the forefinger will act as the stop (depth guage) against the tool rest. just take a light cut and transverse along the tool rest and you should get a straight cut. you may have to make a slight adjustment with your finger against the toolrest to maintain a straight line. use the long point to cut your shoulder. just go straight in at your mark after to clean up , don't do this as a full cut oft he skew, but only you have removed waste material on the tenon. after you have gained confidence of the tool,you will find better ways to do it

   if you are going to leave square shouders on it, and to save you from rippint the corners off, i would suggest cutting in  at those corners with a saw until someone can show you how to cut them with the tool

   ron

3. 
   roc | May 02, 2010 04:32pm | #9

   What application did you make drawing in please

   Nice clear drawing of problem.  What app did you use?.  Did you need to convert it to .jpg or is it in that file designation ?

1. 
   user-64052 | May 02, 2010 07:38pm | #10

   i would imagine that he drew it on a piece of white paper.   took a picture with a digital camera and posted it

   ron

2. 
   Quickstep | May 02, 2010 07:48pm | #11

   I used Powerpoint and saved it as a .jpg so I could post it.

1. 
   roc | May 03, 2010 12:23am | #12

   Thanks Quickstep

   Aw Ron that would be too easy.

1. 
   user-64052 | May 03, 2010 12:44am | #13

   well simple people do simple things and that is more than likely what I would have done

   ron

2. 
   roc | May 03, 2010 09:42pm | #15

   Simple Do

   Well some time ago I wanted to put these on my iPhone and were taken long before I had a digital camera.  I don't have a scanner so guess what ?  I had done just as you described.  So I'm wichya.

   
4. 
   JohnWW | May 03, 2010 04:52pm | #14

   Heresy

   Here's the heretical approach, get it close, but still slightly oversize, with whatever method you choose and then clean it up and get the sides parallel with a sharp coarse wide metal file, using a pair of calipers to check your progress.