Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 25, 2010 09:26pm | #1

   The two woods turn out, when wet by the oil/varnish  finish, not to have the same underlying color the oil/varnish mix just highlighted that difference..  The shellac may also have affected the ability of the oil/varnish finish to be absorbed, perhaps less on the chestnut than on the white oak.   Since you were planning to use the oil/varnish the shellac was a mistake, though apparently the chestnut was not fully sealed enough to prevent the oil/varnish from letting it reach it's natural "wet out" color.  I hope you did wipe off all the excess oil/varnish mix. 

   If you want the two woods to match you will pretty much need to make the new oak match as close as you can to the old chestnut.   The best way to accomplish this is to use a dye to change the color.  But to use the dye you should remove all the existing finish, both the oil/varnish and the shellac.   Trying to use an  oil based stain would tend to emphasize the grain structure of the white oak, probably making it appear more different from the chestnut.  If you had spray capabilities you might use a dye toner to darken the white oak, without giving added prominence to the pores.  .   

1. 
   lins | Mar 25, 2010 11:02pm | #2

   Turning wood brown

   Thank you Mr Schoene, for the speedy and  informative reply. The shellac and oil / varnish mix was applied to two different piece of chestnut. And yes I timed 5 mins and then wiped off any excess oil / varnish mix.

   You have proven to me that I'm on the right track. I have spent over $60 dollars on dye to try to match the brown color and gray hues of the chestnut on the w.oak.

   I guess there will be no magic solution. I was getting very discourage. But knowing I'm headed in the right direction helps.

                                                                                      Thanks Brad

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 26, 2010 12:26am | #3

   Try some experiments with your dye where you apply the base color (a brown probably a bit more vivid in hue but not too dark), then partially seal with no more than 1lb. cut of shellac, and then apply the second color (grey).  (Or depending on the look, you might start with a bit of the grey and after partially sealing the brown.  By the way, until you have sealed the wood, you can mix dye on the wood in separate applications.  You can also wipe down with water if you want to lighten a dye a bit. 

1. 
   lins | Mar 26, 2010 06:58pm | #4

   Turning wood brown

   Thanks again Mr. Schoene. I'll give it another try. Buy the way, my shop is starting to look like a chemistry lab with all the jars of dye. Is this normal ?

   I tried TransTint medium brown water base dye on the white oak. After drying it was to red in color. So I wiped a TransTint green dye over the to redish brown dye. It did help,but it's still to light a brown. My new question is can I add the green dye stright into the brown dyes jar to help reduce the red color,or do I have to wipe the green dye on.

                                                                    Thanks Brad

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 26, 2010 08:30pm | #5

   You can take your choice--it will work either way.  The results could differ a bit it you apply the greenish dye while the brown is still damp, but would be very much the same as mixing them as liquids if you wait for the ifrst coat to fully dry before applying the second coat. 

2. 
   lins | Mar 26, 2010 11:44pm | #6

   Turning wood brown

   Mr Schoene thanks for your time and help. All I have had where books for reference.

                                                                                  Brad

3. 
   RichClark | Mar 28, 2010 10:37pm | #7

   Cool thread...

   Maybe put the oak outside on a sunny day for a bit also...  that will help.. bring out the greys.