Thanks Alex and Jeff for your responses to the ‘wedge tenon’ thread. I did find the wedge article in fww #163. But I also found an article that shows exactly what I was thinking of.
In fww #157 there’s a feature on ‘Safe & Simple Arts and Crafts Finish’ by Jeff Jewitt. Though the focus is on the finish, the photo’s show a bookshelf, roughly 2′ wide x 3′ tall, being held together by 2 shelfs with loose tenons and 2 shelfs set in blind dado’s. The finished piece has no back.
Any ideas if a bookshelf like this needs to be glued up? the article shows pre-finishing the sides without taking care to keep finins out of the mortise or dado slots…
I’d like it if the shelfs would be stable without glue or back piece. I suppose I could build it like that, then if it’s too wobbly, take it appart and rabbit the sides for a back?
Any thoughts? Maybe just making all 4 shelves with loose tenons would provide enough anti-racking potential? Though it seems like that would be too busy visually.
thanks,
mike in olympia.
Replies
No joint is going to come close to providing the racking resistance of a back. Glue is of little value since it's an end grain to long grain joint. The more shoulder contact area the better. Besides style the real reason to use tusk tenons is for KD. If it works stylistically run 1 x 2's or 1 x 3's rails front and back under the edge of the shelves and fit them well to contact the sides of the shelves (don't let the shelf bottom in the dado before the rails contact the sides). Attach the shelves from the out side with bunged screws preferrably screwed into cross dowels. Besides racking resistance you'll keep the case sides from bowing out.
John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
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