Hi,
I recently made a door for a tool cabinet I am building. The door is made from 1/2″ ply (hoop pine) panel with a 3/4″ x 3″ border made from mable. The panel is rebatted into the border, and the border is joined using miters.
During the glue up I was very careful to ensure that the door was glued up squarely, but did not consider the possibility of a twist diagonally across the door creeping in. Unfortunately it did, and I have ended up with about a 1/4″ twist aross the door. The door size is approx 26 1/2″ by 22 1/2″.
Can anyone suggest how I can remove this twist? Any help, without having to start again, will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Alistair
Replies
I'm not really sure if it's completely fixable being the glue has set up and cured. But it sounds like it could of happened because of a few different reasons. The first would be that your maple wasn't properly flattened on your jointer and had the twist in it prior to glue up and stayed there. My second guess would be that you may have overtightened your clamps trying to bring the miters tight causing the frame to twist and set up like that. I'm not sure why you would rabbet the panel in. You should of just grooved the maple and let the panel float. Sometimes it's better to learn what went wrong and just start over. That's my philophosy anyway. John E. Nanasy.
Here's what I'd do:
I'd cut the piece apart carefully and check your rails and stiles CAREFULLY for flatness/squareness.
If all is well, I'd route or otherwise mortise both rail and stile and cut loose tenons to fit..but make them tight and square....
This time, before gluing, lay the frame on a ground cast-iron tablesaw top or something that is dead-flat...don't assume a garage floor, etc is flat...mine isn't. It should be touching all around....if it is not, you're racking and not square..figure out the problem and fix it until all lies completely flat.
Then, brush glue onto the loose tenons and fit together and put back on your flat surface..and put something on the top to keep from rusting from glue drips, etc.
Carefully attach your clamps so that the face of the frame is touching the tabletop...not the clamps. Slowly tighten the clamps, insuring that the four corners all are still touching and still flat. You shouldn't have to clamp super tight...just enough to pull the joints together tight and snug.
Measure your diagonals to make sure all is square and then leave the sucker alone until all is dry...overnight or 24-hours...
Then reinstall your panel.
I agree with Bones about the rabbet...I would have cut grooves ala frame & panel and allowed your panel to "float" in the frame. If you have to start over, do it that way.
Good luck. If you have questions, I'm at [email protected]
Post some pictures of your finished product!
lp
Thank you both for your feedback. The purpose of this work was to learn. I set myself a difficult task to build a wall hanging tool cabinet similar to the one found in Tolbin's Toolbox Book. So from that perspective I have learned stacks and the task worked. My wife can't believe I am using the cabinet for tools and would much prefer to have it inside, so that is good enough for me.
This is the biggest mistake I made in the job, the rest has been an exceptional learning experience for a weekend woodworker.
The door efectively is a big box without a top, and very low sides - I have probably used the wrong term in panel door - should have called it a box from the start. Does this change any of your suggestions?
One day I may get the chance to take a few months of work and do a course, until them I am really enjoying playing.
I will certainly post a picture of the finished product - hopefully shortly.
Thanks again for your advice
Alistair
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