Two Piece Live Edge Table Top that can be disassembled?
Hi there. I’m planning to build a live edge walnut table, about 6’x34″ for our kitchen. I had the chance to buy some ~12/4 slabs for a great price so jumped on it. I plan to joint two pieces to get the table width.
Here’s the issue: my wife is worried that the finished tabletop will be too heavy to ever move anywhere. It will likely be about 150 lbs.
Here’s my solution (looking for a sanity check): Can I dowel the two pieces together with 3/4″ oak but instead of gluing just use table leaf hardware to hold the two pieces together. Kind of like lengthwise table leafs. I would dowel and connect the pieces, surface the whole thing, then disassemble, finish both halves, and put them back together.
Am I missing any obvious pitfalls here? Have you ever seen a lengthwise table leaf that can be disassembled for moving? Thanks for any input.
Replies
How about connecting them with removable butterfly dovetail keys?
If you are have at least one pal you will always be able to move a table. If you have no pals you can hire a mover. Silly reason not to make what sounds like an awesome table. If you don't glue it there is no promise of being able to get it apart or back together on and off the dowels. If you must build it in 2 pcs bury some bedbolts or barrelbolts in it.
You can also connect the halves from under the table with countertop fasteners. You can install them by simply drilling two holes and tightening the bolts to close the joint. Easy!
If I go with the two-piece plan, I really like the countertop fasteners option. I think that has a lot of benefits over the dowels I was considering. jkatzowitz, thanks for that suggestion.
This sounds like an exciting project but one that may challenge you in unexpected ways. If you are planning a 12/4 thick top it may not look right or have the correct clearance for seating. Even if made out of 8/4 stock I would be concerned that even using the heavy Festool knock-down domino XL fasteners in the middle of the table that it will be hard to maintain alignment, let alone with something on the bottom.
I would glue it together and assume you can always find someone to help you move it. In addition to getting help once it is finished, I would plan on needing a second person for parts of the initial build.
Lots of well made furniture case goods push 150 lbs. Big solid cherry or mahogany buffets and the like. They're also a lot more awkward to move than the top of a table. (Ask me how I know. Those days are over.) I even have a 6 foot Knowle sofa that is that weight. I certainly can't lift my half. --shockingly heavy for a sofa.
Friends can help lay the table edgewise on a padded dolly and it can be rolled out to the truck and up the ramp. I vote for the solid top.
Hi, How about building the table with a sub-top of 3/4 ply, perhaps 2" or 3" shorter in each direction, then build your 12/4 top to fit over that. Edge the 3/4 with a wood matching your top, (or perhaps painted black?). Insert several 1" dowel rod stubs in the 3/4 with 1/2" protruding that is keyed into the 12/4 top. To move the table, lift each half of the natural edged piece separately.
I love natural-edged tables. Enjoy yours!
Wes Newswanger
Lancaster, PA
I have built several smaller tables using dowels to align the two halves, and I find that while things sit together well on the workbench, that when they get in to a different environment, they become very difficult to open again.
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