I am looking at buying a 14″bandsaw but remember reading about the difference between a stamped steel frame and a cast steel frame. But that’s all I remember about the article.
I do know that a riser block can be used with a stamped steel frame,but not with a cast frame.
Is one more flexible than the other, potentially causing alignment problems down the road? Which one is better than the other?
I will mainly be using the saw for cutting shapes, not for re-sawing.
Thanks
Replies
I'd start by getting a decent band saw book, like Duginske or Bird, then take a trip down to your local woodworkng equipment dealer to see what's what.
You'll no doubt get gushing advise to order an Iturra catalog. There's a lot of good information in it, but also a lot of stuff you really don't need. Think of it as the band saw equivalent of the J. C. Whitney catalog.
Pete
My opinion: In economical 14" bandsaws, the cast iron frame models are much more stable than the welded steel models. A high end welded steel bandsaw is a joy to use, but those are not so economical.
Bill
I don't want to say price is no object but I would rather pay more now than a lot later on when something breaks or I find it's not what i really wanted.
I have learned this lesson before the hard way with a 1/2" drill that burned out after the second use.
Okay. How much money is in your bandsaw budget? Posting that information will get you a ton of detailed recommendations from those on this board.Many of the 14" iron Delta clones ( and also the Delta itself! ) can be tuned to do a fine job of contour sawing up to 6" thickness. If you want to go thicker, the riser block is one option, or go to a taller welded frame saw such as the various Italian models. Here is where your budget limits are helpful to narrow the field.Bill
the cast iron frame models are much more stable than the welded steel models.And I wonder why modern ships are not built of Cast Iron!I know a 'bit' about metal and both have their place. A properly welded steel tube IS STRONG! Period! Cast iron would have broken in half before steel flexed enough to even come close to breaking!Yes there are exceptions to everything!
Will,Stability and rigidity are different from strength. It is precisely because steel is so very strong that cheap steel saws can be made that won't break, but flex a lot in normal service. The ability to flex without failing under a load is a very useful attribute in a ship's hull, but not in a bandsaw frame.Sorry if I gave you the impression that I thought steel was weaker than cast iron.Bill
Sorry if I gave you the impression ..No need to be sorry! I was just 'sounding' off.My 18" Rikon is a welded steel frame. I can tension a 1" (3 tooth) Lenox blade on it for some of my resawing. Cuts true and straight.
"I do know that a riser block can be used with a stamped steel frame,but not with a cast frame."
I think you've got that backwards. Riser blocks are readily available for cast iron frames, but you do lose something like 3" of space between the blade and frame because the riser isn't curved away like the original casting.
Bruce,So far as I know, the only style of band saw that uses riser blocks are the Delta 14" saw and the numerous Asian clones of that saw. Other saws may have riser blocks available but they are rare. You are right that the welded steel frames don't accept riser blocks, but the riser blocks for the Delta style saws do not reduce the clearance between the frame and the blade.John White
Yestermorrow School, Waitsfield, Vermont
"but the riser blocks for the Delta style saws do not reduce the clearance between the frame and the blade."Oops, I took another look. The original cast iron frame curves away a couple inches from the mounting point so thought you would lose clearance, but the rear blade guard is really the limiting factor. A riser block might reduce clearance by a fraction of an inch if at all.
BruceT
About 15 years ago I bought a General 15 inch band saw. In all these years the only thing I could complain about is that it is so smooth and quiet that I could cut off a finger not knowing it was on. Happily that hasn't happened yet. I can easily cut 1/16 inch veneer but only about 7 inches wide. I use the Wood Slicer blade. I only know in principle about saws not tracking parallel to the fence since this saw tracks right on. My saw is cast iron and heavy. I don't know much about current models but look into the brand. Good luck
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