I am using a 11′ x 16′ single car garage as my workshop. The floor is asphalt and not very even with dips and hollows and the center is about 2″ higher then the sides,making it difficult to roll equipment around and keep things level. I was thinking of laying down 2×2 sleepers, shimming then where necessary to get it level and then putting 3/4 TG plywood overtop. Any other suggestions or recommendations on how to do this? Finally, for the plywood, any thoughts on how or if this needs to be finished?
thanks
Replies
That will work fine, you could use osb instead of plywood,it is less money. Shim and fasten a 5/4 pressure treated board down the center of the high point. On each side, I'm assuming the outsides are the low points, Shim and fasten pt 2x2's ripped from a pt 2x4's. Use a straight edge and shim and fasten the rest of the furring on 16" centers. What's under the asphalt? If it is just dirt or stone, I imagine nails may hold. You should experiment to see what works for fastening. The subfloor will keep the furring together regardless. Just harder to install without good tight fastening.
Put a vapor barrier down first, then furring and subfloor. I found that 12x12" vinyl tiles make an excellent finish floor for a shop. I put down a cheap self stick parquet flooring tile in my shop. Been there for four years and still looks good.If I recall correctly , I spent less than $200.00 for 600 sf.Never expected the tiles to last this long, just needed a temporary flooring til i had more funds.
mike
No expert on this at all but it seems to me you might consider a closer spacing for the sleepers than sixteen inches - maybe twelve inches you ever plan putting in heavy machines . For the small price it could give you more rigidity on a three quarter inch floor. Houses are often built with 1.5 inch floors and, except for the occasional piano doesn't usually have as much weight on it.
Edited 1/24/2006 9:26 pm ET by tinkerer2
My shop has 3/4' osb on engineered joists,16 oc. I have several heavy machines, bandsaw weighs about 500lbs with the mobile base, cabinetsaw 350 to 400 lbs.
16" on center is fine with 3/4" subflooring unless he has commercial machines. He has his shop in a garage, so I assume his machines are not large commercial stuff.
mike
Spacing of floor supports: Yes, I tend to plan for the worst case scenario. And I've not even had a special problem from overloading. It's in the genes.
Hi ALL,
When I first set put out level the floor in my shop, I faced what I thought was going to be nightmare. The floor was low about 5" in one corner. Bear in mind I live in an old farmhouse, and my shop (16' x 20') is on the second floor. Having the shop on the second floor greatly enhances my DC as everything flows downhill, virtually no noise, and the chips/dust all end up on the first floor for easy removal.
The first thing I did was run string lines from corner to corner, starting at the highest point, with line levels to get the whole area level. My 4' level with 8' straight edge quickly told me where the high point was. I then shimmed the entire floor to match the height of the string lines. Do you have any idea how many 2 bys, of various widths I cut into wedges!
Once everything was shimmed 16" OC, I covered the entire floor with 4' x 8' x 3/4" fir plywood, one good side. I was advised not to use T&G (seasonal movement) and to leave 1/8" gaps between each sheet for expansion/contraction. I have applied no finish and it has been in service for 3 years now. I have experienced NO problems, and the bare wood provides sure footing and has taken on a worn patina that you couldn't sand it to!
Just my 2P worth.
Ciao,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
Edited 1/27/2006 10:00 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres
Check with your building official this could be a code violation. Also you might be developing a excellent termite den. You might be better off to just pour a 3” topping slab over the concrete.
Bob
Thanks everyone. Some good suggestions. I think I will go with 16 in centers and add some reinforcements where the TS is going to go. What I could do is get 10 11' 2x2 and 8 14' 2x2, dado then 16" along their lengths and screw/glue to make a frame fitting the dimentions of the floor. Shim the whole thing level and screw it in place into the asphalt over a vapor barrier. Ad some insulation, and then lay down the plywood.
I don't think you can pour concrete over asphalt.
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