To all,
It’ s time here in Houston to do my outside front door. I used Jasco Green to remove most of the shellec off the door, then I sanded the rest, wiped it down with a wet rag and let it dry.
I used minwax to stain the wood and let it dry over nght. The next morning used minwax urathane over the stain and then let it dry for at least10hrs.
The problem is, that when we were putting the door back on, there was a moist spot that caused a smuge. I attempted to sand down the smuge it seems it made it worst.
So, how do I fix a spot that has been sanded down a little bit?
The next prpblem that I have is some bubbles that rose up; do I sand those down with fine sand paper or use steel wool?
I appriciate all comments.
Replies
The first question is whether your door gets sunshine during any part of the day. Basically if its not fully shaded and behind a glass storm door the finish you have chosen won't survive the summer.
Minwax urethane isn't an appropriate exterior varnish and one coat of even the best varnish isn't enought to hold up in exterior situations. Whether the Minwax stain is appropriate depends on the particular stain. Let the stain sit for several days and see if the liquid over the pigment "sludge" in the bottom is substantially clear or whether it is strongly tinted so that a small stirring stick would be more than faintly color. If it isn't mostly clear, this means the Minwax stain contains both dye and pigment. Dye will fade quite rapidly in sunlight. If the Minwax color contains a lot of dye, you may need to strip, and and start over beginning with a stain that is pigment only. Also be aware that in sun, dark colors don't last very well--the door overheats and damages the finish.
If you are OK with the stain, at this point I would stop and let the Minwax stuff get better cured, for several days or a week in a dry, warm place. Then, you need to sand the entire door, with 320 sand paper on a sanding block. This should eliminate the bubbles. Bubbles come from varnish that is too thick and that is over brushed.
I would recommend you reconsider a clear finish and go to a nice rich paint color. It will last much longer than any clear finish.
If you must have a clear finish, use a high quality marine spar varnish. You will have to go to a marina to find it and it won't be cheap. Three brands are acceptable. Epifanes High Gloss, Interlux Schooner, and Pettit Captains. Expect to pay at least $25 per quart. If it isn't one of these (or a 2 part product at double the price) it isn't worth buying, regardless of what the label says or what the helpful salesman tells you.
Then follow the label directions exactly. The manufacturer will tell you to apply something like 6 to 8 full strength brushed on coats sanding between each. (You will have to thin a bit, especially the Epifanes which comes with over 60% solids, to avoid bubbles.)
In full sun, expect to sand an apply a fresh coat every year. With partial shade you might stretch that a year. Clear finishes in sunlight need regular maintenance. There is no apply and forget clear finish.
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