Replies

1. 
   jharveyb | Dec 11, 2021 07:40pm | #1

   I would check with Titebond to find out what they recommend. I checked with the epoxy company when I needed to get a mortise and tenon back apart after the epoxy had set up. They told me to get acetone into the joint, which I was able to do with a pin hole and a syringe.
   I think in general hot water softens hide glue.
   Good luck!

2. 
   beasleysevin | Dec 11, 2021 07:42pm | #2

   Generally speaking water and heat are the most detrimental to hide glues. So that would be my start point. Get your heat gun, some water and a scrub brush and have at it.

3. 
   user-6851987 | Dec 11, 2021 07:54pm | #3

   Heck it might be easier to rebuild!

4. 
   Mike_H3 | Dec 11, 2021 10:18pm | #4

   Steam and a jig to apply pressure is how a luthier removes a guitar neck fastened with hide glue.

5. 
   Ron01960 | Dec 11, 2021 11:03pm | #5

   I use a damp face cloth ,hold your iron on it, it takes a few wetting and heating, It works. I use this method every once in a while in restoration repairs.

1. 
   user-6851987 | Dec 14, 2021 11:03pm | #9

   That works like a charm! Thank You for that tip or sharing your knowledge!

6. 
   pantalones868 | Dec 12, 2021 12:51am | #6

   Hide glue ( I don't know very much about hide glue from a bottle, but it says "hide glue") should release at approximately 200/220 degrees f. If you can heat both sides of a large joint at the sametime, like with a couple of heat guns or a couple of irons. I have both.. My iron(s) is about right for that temperature at the " linen" setting. I use cloth between the wood and the iron, it shouldn't burn at that temperature but I often dampen the cloth and use aluminum foil under it to keep the finish or wood from getting wet. A heated knife can be helpful. I keep a couple of knives on a hot plate-- they should be stiff and not sharp. I made a couple from some sort of pastry knives (big butter knives actually) I found at a goodwill.( Also a good source for used irons.) Don't use the wife's cause after your done she'll tear you a new one! A couple of heated pallet knives 'cause they are thin and flexible. You heat the wood until you think its hot through and through and I found that a slow steady pressure like from a clamp or clamps in reverse works the best. A rubber mallet and a beater block sometimes used cautiously can be useful. Since it's a door you have top and bottom joints and maybe a center rail. Unless you went around the neighborhood borrowing irons you can only do one joint at a time. Get one to move and go to the next joint. When the glue cools it will reset so you go a little at a time from joint to joint and back again.
   Steam works once you work out a rig and can get space to get inside the joint. I made a small steamer once out of a old coffee maker.. I have a special clamping rig I made for removing instrument necks- same process,heat and steady pressure but it's only one joint and it's not big. BIG,BIG deal if you screw up though!

7. 
   fivebirdscustom | Dec 12, 2021 11:10am | #7

   Yes, I used a heat gun and putty knife just the other day to pull a piece I had installed with Titebond Liquid Hide Glue.

   It worked just like regular hide glue.

1. 
   user-6851987 | Dec 15, 2021 07:01am | #10

   Worked like a charm! Thank You for sharing info.

8. 
   user-6851987 | Dec 12, 2021 11:17am | #8

   Thank You everyone for your helpful tips!