Replies

1. 
   marti038 | Jun 17, 2008 12:00am | #1

   I don't own a unisaw, but the reason I stuck with a left-tilt is because it's easier and safer to use on cuts when the blade is angled away from the fence. Try pushing a narrow piece of stock through the blade when it's covering things up.

   With that said, I've never used a right-tilt, so who knows maybe it's a piece of cake?

2. 
   [email protected] | Jun 17, 2008 12:59am | #2

   The right tilt is fine for at least 90%+ of all cuts.  The only problem cut with it is beveled cuts, because you want the force from the blade to push the stock into the fence, with out it being trapped.  So, unless you make bevel cuts, it isn't a problem. 

   On a left tilt saw with the fence on the right, the wide part of the cut stock is up, and the force from the cut pushes the stock down and into the fence. 

   On a right tilt saw, with the fence on the right, the narrow part of the stock is up, with the force from the cut, pushing the stock away from the fence and into the blade.  The wood is "trapped", and if you have problems things can get explosive. 

   For me the solution is to rip bevels with the fence on the left, so that the force from the cut is down and toward the fence, and the wide part of the stock is up.  I have my fence set up to give me about 20-inches to the left of the blade, so it will work for anything I want to bevel.  But I rarely do bevel cuts, so it isn't ever really a problem.  

   There are some who say it is easier to change blades on a left tilt, but unless you are severely right handed, I don't see the difference. 

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Jun 17, 2008 09:13am | #3

   One fellow I know prefers a right-tilt saw and cuts bevels with the fence on the right, but with an auxillary fence.  The auxillary fence is shaped like a sideways T with the top flat against the fence.  The blade is burried in the leg and the blade height is adjusted so that is exactly the same height as the stock is thick.  It's much like cutting bevels on a router table with a V bit.  If the fence is too far back, you narrow the workpiece.  If the fence is too far forwards, you leave a shoulder.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

3. 
   MDCustom | Jun 18, 2008 10:42pm | #4

   One other thing to consider is that when you change blades (eg. thin kerf to regular thickness blade) on a left tilt model- this changes your blade to fence distance. Most left tilts have a motor on the left with the arbor facing right. Thicker blades, especially a stacked dado head force you to make corrections in the blade to fence measurements.
   On a right tilt saw, I agree that the biggest drawback is cutting bevels. Working with the fence to the left of the blade is an easy switch with the Delta Unifence. Two considerations, though. First, if you like to have your fence open at the rear of the cut by about .002" or so for most of your work, when cutting on the left, this set-up can cause your work to bind. Second, this can feel a little awkward until you get used to working "backwards". If it's a good deal I say go for it.

1. 
   RickL | Jun 20, 2008 03:37pm | #8

   "One other thing to consider is that when you change blades (eg. thin kerf to regular thickness blade) on a left tilt model- this changes your blade to fence distance."

   I agree with on the dado correction factor but between a thin kerf blade and standard blade it's pretty much the same issue on a left tilt or right tilt. On  any saw you are technically registering off the flange. Putting a thin kerf blade on still throws off your cursor measurement on a right tilt as the plate is thinner and the tooth is thinner. The arbor flange is your constant not the edge of the tooth as many seem to believe.

    

1. 
   MDCustom | Jun 20, 2008 09:49pm | #9

   You are correct in stating that the flange is the technical reference point.
   So for purposes of this discussion, the actual difference to measure is from the blade plate (which makes contact with the arbor flange) to the edge of the tooth on the fence side. On a right tilt saw, this measurement is quite small when comparing thin and thick kerf blades. Basically it is the amount that the tooth overhangs the plate.
   On a left tilt saw, because the arbor flange faces the fence, you are comparing from one side to the other (blade plate thickness) PLUS the distance to the edge of the tooth. So, when you deduct one measurement (right) from the other (left) you are left with the difference in blade plate thickness. This can be considerable. Try it. It's true.

4. 
   oldusty | Jun 18, 2008 11:30pm | #5

   alan .

            I think whatever you get used to works best .

        When I cut beveled edges or 45° cuts I also use the aux fence and run the blade into the fence . You always want the face side up while cutting a bevel imo to avoid tear out on the face sides.

     When I have a bunch to bevel I set an aux fence at about 5/8" off the table when cutting say 3/4" materials to avoid pinching the off cut between the blade and fence , this removes most of the binding problems for me .

               dusty

5. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Jun 19, 2008 12:59am | #6

   Alan, you should have no worries. I use an old left tilt full cast iron contractors saw 1 1/2 hp. and a 1985 right tilt 3 hp.  uni with a 52" unifence. It just makes me think every time I use these TS--and that's a good thing, but they work fine. I can do almost 95% of all work on the rt but I normaly use it for the heavy stock, real hardwoods, big dados and all rips. The left tilt is used for light stock or special set ups.

   It would help to know ?

   what saw you use now?

   what type of fence is on the unisaw?

   Paddy

6. 
   2upchuck | Jun 20, 2008 12:00am | #7

   I've been using that same saw for 30 yrs. So old it is a Rockwell. I've added the JessEm Mast-R-Slide, and wouldn't trade it for anything.