Replies

1. 
   _mj_ | Dec 17, 2021 07:16pm | #1

   First thing to check is for a setscrew hole on the formerly fixed flange. If you find a hole but no screw run a magnet through the bottom of the saw. If you find both there is likely a small flat on the shaft where the setscrew should land. Add some locktite when you reassemble.

   If there is no hole just ignore me and move on with your evening.

2. 
   _mj_ | Dec 17, 2021 07:21pm | #2

   FWIW, I was taught to jam a blade with a block to remove it and only use the second wrench to tighten... I don't know why and have never questioned the lesson, but it WAS a unisaw.

3. 
   jharveyb | Dec 17, 2021 07:32pm | #3

   Not likely it was welded, as that much heat can distort the parts, which could cause serious run-out in the blade. More likely it was a press fit, or interference fit, that should be fairly tight. They use the same fit for mounting bearings to keep the inner race from spinning on the shaft and creating slop.

   I have a Powermatic 65 rather than a Unisaw, so I am not so familiar with your blade changing method. I don't touch my fixed flange. Instead I raise the blade and put a scrap of wood across the opening and into the teeth, to hold the blade and shaft from turning. To refix the flange, you could use Loctite Stud & Bearing Mount, as it is designed for this purpose. Make sure you put a blade, outer flange, and nut on the arbor after you apply the S&BM to make sure the flange is in the correct position as the stuff hardens.

4. 
   esch5995 | Dec 18, 2021 01:10pm | #4

   In 40 years of using tablesaws, primarily Unisaw, I have never put a wrench on the back of the arbor, just jamb a block of wood into the blade and loosen the front nut. For those so inclined they also make a plastic gizmo with a handle that accomplishes the same thing with possibly a slightly higher safety factor since it covers the blade entirely.