Hello,
This is my first time on this wonderful web site and am just getting the feel of it. Please excuse my posting if I am in the wrong location.
I just purchased a used 1- 1/2 hp Unisaw (about 25 years old). It appears to have low mileage. However from inactivity the belts may need to be changed. The saw didn’t come with a manual. Can someone advise me where I might find information here or elsewhere on-line on how I go about changing the belts.
Thanks Bob
Replies
Post your model number and I may be able to come up with a manual for you.
................................................
Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.
~ Denis Diderot
Id Plate indicates: Cat No. 34 - 761S
The manual is too big to attach here, so I will contact you by e-mail.
................................................
Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot
All Unisaws are essentially the same--only details have been changed, such as style of arbor I think just one variant, perhaps two. The base has changed a bit, from cast iron to folded sheet metal, and the cabinet sheet metal, and door (or lack there of) have changed. Obviously the 1725 HP bullet motor has a different size pully, and the opening for the motor on the side has changed size to accommodate the motor change. The rip fence has changed.
I'm aware of that but it's nice to have the manual for your specific model number before it gets impossible to find. Chances are this won't be the only question he has.
................................................
Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot
It's only that there are really only two models of Unisaws (there was a change in the arbor pattern at some time) everything else except accessories is functionally the same. For that matter all the eastern cabinet saws differ from the Unisaws in only minor ways, mostly just fit and finish as well as paint color--they are just copies.
What's the big deal about offering the guy a free manual for his saw that has the info he is seeking in it?
................................................
Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot
Sorry, not my intention at all. I was only saying that just about ANY manual for a Unisaw would work just fine--it doesn't have to be some specific model. The model numbers mostly reflect such things as what accessories or motors they have, not anything fundamental.
I understand that, having sold and serviced Unisaws. If I can get the manual for someones particular model I like to do so.
The person needing the manual is often more confident that the procedures are accurate when the manual matches their machine.
It's also handy should they need to service the arbor or need to replace an ancilliary part such as the switch housing.
Some folks like to keep their machines historically accurate and a manual with part numbers accurate for the machine is handy to have.
He mentioned he did not have a manual and in most cases it does not take significantly longer for me to send the one for a particular model as opposed to a generic one.
Had he only asked about the belt changing procedure I probably would have just provided that, however he said he had no manual and I thought it would be nice to provide him with the manual for his particular model and kill two birds with one stone as it were.
................................................
Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot
My truck does not have that much HP. I'll bet that saw can really go.----WW 57
Shucks, that motor doesn't compare with the 3450 HP engine in my WW II B29. Ha, I missed that the first time around.
Edited 1/10/2009 9:39 pm ET by Tinkerer3
Were you the pilot or a crew member of the B 29? We have the only flying B 29 in the world out here where I live. It is really cool to see that big warbird in the air on some days. Thoses old birds have a sound all to themselves. When you hear those radial engines, you cannot help to look up and see what kind of plane is up there. God Bless your generation, of which my parents came from.-------WW 57
Actually that Hah I put in there should probably have been five Hahs. When the war was over, I was only in sixth grade but I had plenty of cousins and uncles in it.
I really wasn't all that interested in it at the time. I just knew we had to win. I've become more interested in it since and like to read all the info I can get my hands on about it. I also wouldn't swear to the fact that those motors have 3450 HP either but I know they were pretty big.
Well---God Bless you anyway-------WW 57
It is a sad to learn that there is only one B29 still able to fly.
Must be some expensive to keep such aircraft airworthy. Very sad.
Vin
Whoops, of course I meant RPM. Pretty strong 1 1/2 hp. though it still runs on 120 volt. I'd take a Unisaw with that motor over any of the hybrid saws with the 2 hp. motors for 120 volts.
I knew you meant RPM, but it was still kinda funny.----WW 57
http://www.sawcenter.com/index.html Check out this site under rebuilding a unisaw. You have to loosen the motor and hold it up with a piece of scrapwood. You can than reach up (or down from the throat plate) and remove the belts. It is a bit of a puzzle though. They have to be removed and replaced in a certain order. You'll see what I mean when you get into the saw. BTW, I run my Uni on 2 belts...personal preference This site will walk you through the entire procedure...and sell you the belts (bearing etc) too...JImmy
Edited 1/10/2009 1:39 pm ET by Jimmy
Jimmy - Thanks for the quick response. Your recommendations are just what I'm looking for. Now I'll have to take a harder look at the Unisaw.
I also appreciate your web site reference. It appears that the Saw Center can handle the needs of most - - for woodworking machines and power tools.
Thanks again Bob
Loosen the motor mount bolt, then push the motor all the way up and tighten the motor mount belt to hold the motor in place. Work the belts off one at a time.
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans.
"Life is not a success only journey." Dr. Phil
I have a 1950's vintage unisaw with what appears to be original belts - useable but not in great shape. I plan on replacing the 3 belts with 2 link belts the next time I catch them on sale.
Piker - Can you explain why you would use link belts over the original continuous one piece belts - - is there a mechanical advantage? And - - why would you use two link belts and not three link belts?
Bob
I think 3 belts is overkill. A friend of mine has a Unisaw he purchased new about 25 years ago. Within a very short time one belt of the matched set had stretched & he was basically running on 2. As far as I know, it's still that way & he's still building furniture. The link belts are less prone to stretching & slipping and really do run smoother. I use them on everything & try to get them on sale fo $7-$8/ft. (Cdn).
Piker - Thanks for the insight - - will try to find information written about them.
Bob
b, welcome to knots, being a belt and suspenders type guy I would ask "why did the engineers provide a three belt pulley ?" I just rebuilt a 3 hp 1985 right tilt unisaw with three matched delta belts but would use the Fenner link belts as a future replacement. So as not to steal this thread you should start a thread in power tools to ALL on link belts -are they worth it? and ---"you will get the rest of the story" .Paddy
One belt will suffice on a Unsaw. Proof is the 9 hp sliding panel saws. Pretty much all the ones I've used and worked on (I'm a service tech for machinery) only have one belt. The three belt thing on a Unsaw goes way back to the overkill days. PM went to 2 belts on the 66.
A better option is the cogged belt. The cogs allow it to work better on small diameter pulleys. Fenner belts are fine on a motor that is supported by gravity. The problem with the standard belts is they develop a memory and tend to slip until warmed up on gravity type supported motors such as contractor saws. It's a non-issue on tensioned motors such as Unisaws, etc. Most folks think the Link belt is the answer to all issues. I disagree. Cogged belts are inexpensive and much better than standard belts. Manufacturers typical put cheap belts and blades on tools. Simple upgrades will improve the tool in both categories.
My 2 cents from 25 years of machine rebuilding and tuning.
By the way, modern belts, at least from the same basic lot are close enough that you do not need to pay the big bucks for the "matched" set sold by Delta.
Hello again,
Unexpectedly and unfortunately I have had to be away from my computer for a period of time since posting "Unisaw Link Belt Changing" on the Fine Woodworking web site. But I do want to thank everone that responded to my first posting. I was truly surprised by the number of responses and very appreciative for all the information provided. The responses were terrific..! It was a nice way to get acquainted with the web site and some of the participants. I really enjoyed the give and take humor about the 3450HP saw motor - - just great...! The responses were just what I was looking for. And - - Don Green's sending me a copy of the saws manual was the frosting on the cake - - extremely nice - - WOW..!
Thanks again to a wonderful introduction the the Fine Wood Working web site - - couldn't ask for more.
Bob
PS: Will be having an electrician out this week to install a dedicated circuit for my saw. Then I can take it for a test drive to see what is going to be needed.
And a special thanks to Paddy for the personal opinion e-mail. Paddy I am still trying to figure out how I can post photos - - really something new for Bob.
Hi Bob,
Welcome to Knots and thanks for the post. I too have a Unisaw and its belts will need replacing in the near future.
Posting pics on Knots is relatively easy.
When you post/reply to a post, down near the bottom of the screen you will see an Attach Files button. Click on this and a dialogue box will appear where you can Browse your computer. Click this button to find the pic/file you are looking for then click Upload and wait for a message to appear describing the file you selected. This is important as if you don't wait the file will not be attached.
Then you can either go back to Browse for another one or click Done when you are finished. You can also click Preview to see your post B4 posting it.
Another caveat is to make the pics .jpg files and make them about 100K or less. There are still folks out in the boonies still on dial up. Sad but true. There are many programs to resize pics and Irfanview (free download - Google it) is one of the more popular ones.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Hi Bob @ Kidderville Acres,
Thanks for the guidance on how to submit photos. I will do a test photo posting asap to see if I can get it to work. Something new for me - - looks like a great way to share projects, equipment concerns, techniques etc..
Bob
Edited 1/27/2009 12:47 pm ET by bdek183
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled