Replies

1. 
   RickL | Apr 16, 2007 07:05pm | #1

   Taking the top off is the best solution in my experience as a machine tool  tech. Used to work for a dealer on Delta equipment and can change the bearings on a Unisaw arbor in 1 hour. This includes taking the top off and aligning the top back up.

   Taking the top off means you can really look at things under the hood. The best lube is no lube or a wax with graphite. Grease tends to collect dust and clogs it up. I'd first try cleaning from below before taking the table off. Squirt some solvent in the racks and blow the crud out.

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Apr 16, 2007 09:31pm | #2

   Thanks for the prompt reply. I was a fraid of that. If you see the pic below, with my outfeed table/router table mounted to the saw the task becomes a little more time consuming - and I have limited mobility until the cast is off.You mention "cleaning from below" - do you mean from the rear entry?Frosty

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Apr 16, 2007 09:39pm | #3

   OOOps! Forgot the pics.Frosty

   
1. 
   sapwood | Apr 16, 2007 10:11pm | #4

   I'm not a machine tech, but I've been able to keep my Unisaw in good health for the past 27 years........ You may not have to remove the top. Get some spray lube, I use LPS 1, and give a good shot to the worm gear that raises the blade. I can access this by the front slot where the elevation crank extends through the base. Turn the handle as you spray so that you hit the whole gear. This has always worked for me to keep the controls running easily. I've had to remove my top only once in all the years and for me it was a lot more than an hour job. Taking off the fence rails and the side table would take me an hour. For that matter, it'd take an hour to simply clean up around the saw enough to work on it effectively. The spray lube takes two minutes.

2. 
   RickL | Apr 16, 2007 10:16pm | #5

   Was referring to the side access door. You should be able to clean the gear rack. I alwys tell folks to make sure it's accessible in case you need to remove the top. Always hated going to do a reapir and they built the saw into some crazy complicated set. After a few times I would tell them to clear everything away before I would work on the saw. At my time at $35 an hour  they would do it to save the money. 

   Edited 4/16/2007 3:20 pm ET by RickL

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Apr 17, 2007 04:03pm | #6

   Thanks for the help. I really wanted to avoid taking the unit apart so I takled the problem through the blade plate. I got the issue corrected but I have more than a few bruises on my forearms. And thank goodness for a magent to retreive dropped bolts and spacers.I had to remove the sheet metal guard in front of the blade, then I wire brushed the worm gear and as much of the quadrant as possible. Used bee's wax to provide some lube. The big problem was getting the guard bolted back in place. Thank goodness for some tricks I learned when I was a mechanic on CAT dozers many years ago.Thanks again. Frosty

1. 
   rabin | Sep 24, 2008 02:37am | #7

   I'm interested in your tricks with regards to the blade guard.   I was looking at it last night and was wondering how to overcome this potential problem.

    

   Thanks

   Larry

2. 
   Jfrostjr | Sep 24, 2008 03:46pm | #8

   It was many months ago but I suspect I was referring to the ability to start cap-screws with the tips of my fingers. Perhaps I 'wedged' a cap-screw in a socket so I could use a short wrench extension to get it started.The raising-of-the-blade problem turned out to be limited by a power cord that hung up on a projection inside the saw housing . I spliced in another 6" of cord so it hangs out of the way. I now lube with the side panel removed.Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922