Does anyone have insight with regard to the choice of up and down router cutters with streight vs curved flutes? Seems like up and down streight flutes would chatter less since the impact is spread over a larger angular arc. I see lovely long curved up and down sets. Seems like the down cutters wouldn’t be good for plunge work, but cutters going down must discard the chips down so there is one difference. There must be culture here that is important.
red
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Red
I use the sprial DOWN when using the router free hand to cut in wood where I'm worry about chipout.
I use the sprial UP when the router is mounted in the router table so that the cutting action pulls the stock to the table rather than pushing it up.
I'm sure others will have additional ideas.
Best of luck!
Thanks Dockside, So I went out at lunch and got a spiral down cutter to play with from the Sawdust Shop here in Sunnyvale CA with my allowance for next month, ouch! This spring I put together a 3.5 HP Porter-Cable in a Woodpecker quick lift and can't wait to try some more new stuff. What a lovely beast! I've been making audio speakers recently and this is a great step up particularly for my hard wood parts. I'm also 'dockside' but so far only in my dreams. Can you touch the water?red
Red
The cost for these are usually due to the fact they are all carbide not just braised on pieces of carbide.
I live in Michigan and come from a lineage of seafarers. My Grandfather had a masters licence for the great lakes, my dad was in the Navy and, I build boats for a hobby.
Take very shallow bites with the that bit in the beast so that it doesn't bite.
BOL... Ric
That bit is solid carbide. I'll take it slow as a last skim cut. Your lucky to have that great sea fairing lineage. My last name is french for 'those that live in the marsh by the sea'. I've been looking at wooden boat plans, hummm.. another small project if I'm lucky. Stay well and thank for the info. red
An overview, see no.12.
Thanks that was good intro info. I always enjoy a write up that supports opinions and ideas with stories or data. I have several routers I've used over the years including an old Sears 1/4". I put myself through school working in metal and instrument shops where I qualified on Bridgport mills before the dawn of digital numerical drives. But so called 'fine woodwork' is different than metal work. Turning a dovetail o-ring grove or a ultra high vacuum gasket lip in stainless plate on a 24" DC LaBlond is a universe away from working dovetails in hardwood. I tend to fall into the wooden camp that thinks a router is to new fangled for real woodworking. But than I like the precision the power and the fit-up they bring to good material. And I'm enjoying this 3.5 HP PC motor and the quick lift with large cutters in hardwood. red
Like many woodworking processes, you sometimes have to think outside of your experience. This is particularly true in industrial woodworking where specialized machinery, high production and sensitive materials are used. Non wood materials like acrylics and thin soft metals, plastics, phenolics often require a specialized bit. Sign makers, pattern makers and folks that do a lot of template work sometimes use spirals for there applications.
An up spiral is particularly useful in evacuating waste. A down spiral works to help prevent pull up on veneers or laminates. There are also combination up and down spirals for things like double sided laminates. In addition to the effect the cutter has on certain materials, spirals are also used for plunge cuts, their tips act a little like a drill bit, compared to a standard straight bit. Some spirals have aggressive teeth and these are used for production panel sizing.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Hammer1,Makes good sence and I can see where I will want to make use of these attributes, .. cool. I wasn't really suprised, but I was alarmed to see how little board feet can be processed with a router bit before it looses it's edge. Are there sharpening services or DIY sharpeners for router bits? Does any one sharpen these expensive solid carbide spiral cut bits?red
Carbide requires diamond abrasives for sharpening and specialized machinery. Some shops have their own but many of us send routers bits to the same sharpening service we use for saw blades. One of the most common router bit sharpening machines uses a tulip shaped wheel that has diamond grit on the edge. The circumference of the wheel matches the shape on the inside of the bit. Very little material is removed, router bits last through many sharpenings, although, they will loose their size, eventually. If you compare industrial level bits and blades to consumer models, you will notice a marked difference in the thickness of the carbide. This allows many more sharpenings. Carbide can be replaced when damaged but it's less expensive to buy a new router bit. Carbide saw tips get replaced regularly. Large sawmill blades can have insert teeth that are easily replaced in situ.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Hammer1, I'd be grateful for a service reference for the sharpening, both for my carbide saw blades and also for the router bits. I've tried to purchase bits from the better vendors so far. Also, how about high speed steal cutters is onesie-twosie sharpening available for DIYers and do you have contact service info or price lists?red
The folks who make Forrest blades are equally renowned for their sharpening service:http://www.forrestblades.com/sharpening.htm********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
red2erni, fill out your location in your profile. Just click on your name. Could be someone close to you. A while back there was a list of sharpening services on the forum, I can't find it now. I use a local company, Alpha Carbide in Saco, Maine. There are usually sharpening services all over and you can mail any where. Take a look in your yellow pages. You want to look for a place where the pro shops take theirs. There are always some small local sharpening shops but they may not be experienced enough to do the correct job on carbide. Another tact is to call a local cabinet or architectural shop to see where they take theirs. Prices vary with the type of bit and the number of teeth on a blade. Typical straight bits are probably around $6, 10" saw blades about $12. I used to do my own steel blades years ago but I haven't used any in a long time.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Hammer1, Thanks, that makes several things clear(er). It's gonn'a be good fun, n' clean cuts. red
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