Replies

1. 
   RevTed | May 21, 2003 12:07am | #1

   http://www.pennstateind.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=PSI&Category_Code=TSG

   $200 intro price

   View Image     

1. 
   jmac | May 21, 2003 12:25am | #2

   Does this include a splitter too? I didn't see it in the description.  Nevertheless $200 is much better than @$400 for the Excalibur.  Are Penn State Ind. products generally of good quality?  Thanks for responding.

1. 
   billyg83440 | May 21, 2003 03:04am | #4

   Everything I've ever heard about Penn State has been good.

   Good price on that gaurd.

   Now, if you just like to build your own I'll try to post a pdf file with plans on how to do so.

   I'll post this first, as this is the third time I've tried to upload it, and each time it locks up my browser.

2. 
   RevTed | May 21, 2003 03:37am | #5

   Just passing along the info.  I don't know much about the quality.

2. 
   forestgirl | May 21, 2003 01:12am | #3

   Doesn't appear to solve the splitter problem though.  (Love the price!)forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   migraine | May 21, 2003 03:49am | #6

   Guard???  You don't need no stinking guard!   :-)

3. 
   foghorn | May 21, 2003 03:34pm | #7

   Just finished installing the Delta Deluxe Guard. Paid $ 269 at Amazon.com. My saw is a  Delta Contractor with a Biesmeyer 30' fence which required that I get an adaptor bar(which had to be cut to size) to attach the Deluxe Guard to. This was another $ 39.00.

   I'm not very adept at installing this kind of thing but I went slowly and all went without any major hitches .  I bought this particular item as a result of an article by Kelly Mehler in one of the WW mags. Given my strong inclination toward impatience and a belief that says betting I will NEVER make that one little mistake is unwise.

   Now that it is paid for,installed and used,  here's my take on the Guard:

   I'm glad I got it. It is very sturdy and well designed in a way but I think there will be major improvements down the road.

   It substantially (1 to 2 feet) increases the space the saw occupies on the right side of the blade.

   The splitter is Very easily inserted and removed by tightening/loosening a knob located to the rear of the blade and a few inches below the insert.

   The plastic blade shields move easily out of the way and can be set/adjusted to ride far enough back from the blade so that vibration doesn't cause them to flop back down.

   It comes with extra parts that would enable you to attach a light and also move your starter switch from under the table to the extension bar. This really depends on what model saw you are attaching the Guard to.

   I broke a piece of the plastic shields while installing and Delta shipped  a replacement part   the same day for FREE. That kind of product support is really important to me.

   I find the basket (about 12" square ) attached to the extension arm very convenient.

   Overall, having a guard (of any kind) takes some getting used to but I think it is well worth it if it protects us from that one mistake.  The weigh of this unit (mostly in the big curving support pipes) struck me as a bit of overkill  but aside from that I thought it was my best choice (considering cost and effectiveness) when I ordered it and now that I have installed and actually used it my opinion remains the same.

   Hope this helps.  I also hope that whatever you buy, you do buy something. 

4. 
   TerryH | May 21, 2003 04:05pm | #8

   jmac,

   Another possibility here....

   I used plans from Wood Online to build a overarm guard for my TS. The guard actually has a hinge in the arm so it can swing totally out of the way for blade changing, dado's and such. The extra dust collection is really nice also.

   I also made a very simple splitter and zero clearance insert that works great. I used a piece of white oak glued in a saw kerf in a homemade zero clearance insert. I have attached pics of the setup and here is the link to the plan.

   http://woodstore.woodmall.com/tabduscolbon.html

   Let me know if you have any questions.

   Terry

   
1. 
   jmac | May 21, 2003 04:29pm | #9

   That guard looks pretty solid.  How easy was the construction of it (as I have said, I'm realtively new at woodworking)?  It seems that even if I buy a pre-built model, I'll need to invest a bit of time setting it up to fit my saw.  Plus I'm sure I'll learn something trying to build it myself.

   Also, was the cost of materials @$50?

   Also, I've read mixed things about splitters needing to have the anti-kickback pawls.  I notice your design is just a splitter leading me to believe the pawls are not really necessary.  Is my assumption correct?  Thanks.

1. 
   TerryH | May 21, 2003 04:44pm | #10

   jmac,

   Probably good reasoning on both sides of the anti kickback pawls but I personally don't see the need for more than the splitter. I attended a class taught by Mr. Tablesaw Kelly Mehler. This splitter is his idea. He also did not see the need for the pawls. As long as the splitter keeps the work from climbing up on the blade there is not going to be a kickback.

   I had the scrap wood, hose etc... on hand for the guard so I only bought the aluminum pieces for mounting the head, good stout hinge for the upper arm and the piece of Lexan. I would guess that $50 would be pretty close if you had to buy everything. I built and installed it in a day. Very easy project.

   The guard does take some getting used to, but now that I had used it for a while I would not be without it.

   Terry

2. 
   billyg83440 | May 21, 2003 05:15pm | #11

   Hey, it worked today.

   Here is a plan that used to be available for free on the web. But the site it was on is gone now. I plan to build one based on these plans, though I'm sure I'll change things some.

   
2. 
   efarmer4 | May 21, 2003 08:30pm | #12

   Is there any support for the head (part over the blade) of the guard in that design? A lot of the others have some kind of counter balance for the head of it. This looks like the whole weight of the head and some of the hose all falls on the work, or am I missing something? Does it scratch or mark the work as it slides under? I have the older Delta overarm guard that comes in from the left, but it has a limit on how far the head falls down. I'd like to add dust collection and remount it with support from the ceiling but don't know if it will need counter balance.

   Thanks,Edward

1. 
   TerryH | May 22, 2003 08:53pm | #15

   The arms are attached with carriage bolts and large knobs through the head assy. You just set whatever height required and tighten these down. Works great. I have actually used this feature as an added hold down. I have never had it scratch or mar the piece being cut.

   Dust collection is best when the head is spaced about 1/8" above the work.

   Terry

   Edited 5/22/2003 1:55:03 PM ET by Terry H

5. 
   Elcoholic | May 21, 2003 10:55pm | #13

   I have the Excaliber and Beismeyer splitter.  The Excaliber works great and is very easy to remove and reinstall w/o tools.  The PennState wasn't around a few years ago and the Delta lacked integrated DC.  I cut the top of the splitter off to remove the pawls. 

   John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

1. 
   jmac | May 22, 2003 07:00pm | #14

   Thanks for all of your input.  I am going to try to build one myself, and if that fails buy.  I'll let you all know if I struggle and need some help.  Thanks again.